Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im on the gold coast and have fought my way thru soooo many diy's, help guides etc on this site for a few probs with my liner but i am giving up, im not willing to pull apart my engine to find the problem because i dont have the time or the experiance with new turbo engines so im wondering can anybody recommend a good mechanic on the gold coast or further north towards brissy that specialises in import/turbo'd engines. (i drive an r33 rb25 det btw)

Thanks guys in advance, i need your help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172453-good-mechanics/
Share on other sites

whats wrong with your car? Noises?

yea, i found a few faq links with a few causes and remadies, basically i was driving home one day and went round a roundabout and tried to floor it cos i cut infront of a car and the car was rattling and jumping and wouldnt take off, it "hesitated" while making a strange noise and now wen i boot it it does the same thing, all the time, from the lights, dropping down a gear on the highway etc etc.

The faq said to cover the coil packs with tape but im not used to messing with anything more than the typical servicing stuff wen it comes to engines. unless some one has had this happen to them too id rather just take it to a mechanic and get him to look at it. 2 many things could be the prob, eg diff, oil systems, fuel systems, air flow, turbo etc. its scary. but yea im new to the area and dont no any mechs in the area hu would take on an import turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172453-good-mechanics/#findComment-3174728
Share on other sites

im trust worthy.. ive done many coilpack mods with silicone and have a tube here.. ill be happy to walk u thru it mate. i do everything nearly.. from coolers, turbos, exhaust to RB20 conversions in sils.. ive done quite a few jobs for members here and on bc.com .. and so far everyone has been happy :)

and best thing is i dnt bullshit you with excuses i can actually explain it and i actually knw what im doing...

'unlike taking ur car to say APC to have an apprentice drop a bolt into a wrx bellhousing hehe, think of the noise and damage that bolt did on start up..'

send me a PM if u have any queries.

also i do FMIC kit installs from $175 for S1 GTST, and $200 for Silvias... and so forth :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172453-good-mechanics/#findComment-3177708
Share on other sites

i called up gary and checked the website for elsewhere and i reackon i mite just try tokage, they seem to be the biz price wise, gunna call him again tomoz to find out when i can book my car in,ill keep u updated on how the search goes if i find others and will let people who havent been to tokage how i go.

Let the search continue

Dazza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172453-good-mechanics/#findComment-3189467
Share on other sites

howmuch do they charge to get a set of coilpack and plugs replaced from a mechanic? rough estimate?

workshop rates are $90 and upwards my old place was $110 per hour!.. so ur looking at around an hour labour.. less but a shop will charge an hour just cause its not worth billing .5 hour.

coilpacks (splitfires) $560+ from slide..

plugs (NGK coppers) $4 each = $24 so ur looking around the 650 mark all up at a shop..

then they will give u a bullshit excuse that oh ur fuel pump is effed and ur harness has a bridge.. and tappet cover gaskets and ull walk out with a 1k bill..

i knw how they work i used to work for one.

pm me if u need some help or any other details..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172453-good-mechanics/#findComment-3190328
Share on other sites

workshop rates are $90 and upwards my old place was $110 per hour!.. so ur looking at around an hour labour.. less but a shop will charge an hour just cause its not worth billing .5 hour.

coilpacks (splitfires) $560+ from slide..

plugs (NGK coppers) $4 each = $24 so ur looking around the 650 mark all up at a shop..

then they will give u a bullshit excuse that oh ur fuel pump is effed and ur harness has a bridge.. and tappet cover gaskets and ull walk out with a 1k bill..

i knw how they work i used to work for one.

pm me if u need some help or any other details..

Ive got the coils and the plugs :D how much is it to install it/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172453-good-mechanics/#findComment-3190423
Share on other sites

isn't there a tutorial to do them on here? i didn't think coilpacks and plugs were that hard to replace.

yeah there is but not on the Neo 6 ones. ive found the one replacing the coils on RB26

and instructions w/ pics on how to remove the top bit of the Neo 6..

but i dun have confidence to fiddle arnd with it.. not too confident :action-smiley-069:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172453-good-mechanics/#findComment-3190702
Share on other sites

I just changed my coilpacks this afternoon. I'm not a mechanic which is why it took me 2 hrs but I saved myself $$$. My splitfires cost $465 delivered thanks to Perfectrun.

It really isn't hard to do at all, it's just that all the little fiddly connections and things take time if you don't want to break/damage anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172453-good-mechanics/#findComment-3193006
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...