Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I know this isn't the WTB section but I've already posted there and thought I might try local in SA too. I'm in pretty desperate need of a front left hand site balljoint+hub assembly for my R33. Just got my tires changed today and found out what was causing my uneven wear. Now with the new tires on I don't want to leave it too long before sorting the problem. I've tried all the spare part places that were open today but no such luck, gonna try the rest on Monday but thought to check if anyone here can help out. As you can't just buy the balljoint new I asked Pedders how much for the whole assembly and they said $2000! :( DEFINITELY not going with that option so if anyone can help out or point me in the right direction, would be well appreciated :P

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172996-urgent-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Did it myself, then realised that I needed new bushes on the top of the arm so I just said screw it, took it to Pedders and got them to fit the bushes on both sides plus adjustable camber kit. Plus, since it was only there just over a month ago for a 28 point safety check and they didn't pick this, they chucked in a four wheel alignment for free. Well worth it I say; was chucking it around abit tonight on the way home from the movies and the improvement is definately noticeable :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...