Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As said above .. $4000+ a set .. and thats used lol

I was concidering them but my r34 is a GTT and the dish would be crap in comparison to the GTR wheels .. LMGT4 great wheel tho

Check out Bee R - B5 if you like those .. :P Or koya drift tek

i think the american government is behind all this, the signs point to the truth,

if you're too blind to see the truth then you will never understand the US government caused 9/11, same as how they caused this seagull...

be weary, you can get them off ebay cheap these days and while the power gains are significant you have to be REALLY careful because a lot of demand has picked up, because of their plug n play characteristics without the need of any dyno tune... they are particularly popular in the USA now...

...just be careful though off ebay, cos they look right, they work right, but they are probably a chinese copy, i've heard of all different problems such as opposing loom pinouts, they are often made mass produced in china, which is why the prices are so low,

i personally if you're looking at installing a seagull i would get in touch with either sydney_kid or creativ motorsports, they will order you in or even custom fabricate a seagull for your car, this is the best route as you still have the reliability of an aus / jap built seagull but the significant power gains are still there

the induction noise my seagull makes as it spools up around... 1.5revs? there abouts, oh... just music to my ears! i strongly suggest them presonally

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...