Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found this quote on bendix web site.

We recommend that rotors are machined only if they exhibit disc thickness variation (a shaking steering wheel and/or pulsating pedal on brake application), severe scoring, runout or heat checking.

I am going to change my rear brake pads soon. I am not sure if my disc need to machine or not?

How do I know if I need to machine the discs? Can I judge it by see it and touch? maybe shiny and smooth?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17346-brake-disc-need-to-machine-or-not/
Share on other sites

my discs started to go on me recently, but a very good friend of mine who tunes skylines and other high performance vehicles strongly suggested that i replaced them not machined them, the discs start to get really shinny and have like a glossy look on them, i replaced mine with slightly larger ones.

i just changed all 4 pads today and had the disc machined also. the rears were very noticable as u could clearly see where the metal indicator was rubbin on the disc's......it was bumpy and uneven. i guess u can tell by lookin and rubbin ur fingers over it. the fronts werent as bad but i had em done anyways. i think they also help aviod that squeakin problem. its a cheap alternative but if u have the dosh change em like 2BNVS did.:D

My old stock rotors were machined twice before i replaced them. Machining them is fine until their is nothing left to be machined. If you replaced your rotors instead of machining them you'd be up for rotors once a year.

  • 5 years later...

Sorry to bump an old thread, but didn't want to start a new one.

My brakes have been shittin' me for the past few weeks.

After braking at speeds of above 60ish the brakes will make a sort of creaking noise and the steering wheel will kind of shudder a little with a bit of noise.

Am I right in assuming I definitely need to get my rotors machined?

Edited by ray32

Same boat as me, when hitting high revs going at 70 or 80 and trying to break, they dont make a noise but they start to shudder really bad, Need to bet them machined.

Got other pair of rotors sitting at home, theyre bigger, and dunno if they will fit.

:D

MRXTCZ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...