Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cant the time VCT enables/disables be altered without an aftermarket computer (other than afc4) if so how? cheers

never heard of the AFC4 (apexi item?).

you can enable it and disable it, by unplugging the solenoid. that's how you determine the most optimal rpm point for it to engage, by doing two dyno runs one with and one without.

i'm pretty sure you will need an aftermarket something to control when the vct/vvt/nvcs (whatever you want to call it) is activated/deactivated, whether it be a full replacement ecu or a little piggyback controller.

stock; the vct turns on just above idle rpm and turns off around ~5000rpm'ish. don't quote me exactly on that though.

the power fc guys require the fc datalogit (laptop program) to be able to access the function.

i know that doesn't exactly answer your questions, but hopefully it'll provide a little grounds for discussion.

never heard of the AFC4 (apexi item?).

you can enable it and disable it, by unplugging the solenoid. that's how you determine the most optimal rpm point for it to engage, by doing two dyno runs one with and one without.

i'm pretty sure you will need an aftermarket something to control when the vct/vvt/nvcs (whatever you want to call it) is activated/deactivated, whether it be a full replacement ecu or a little piggyback controller.

stock; the vct turns on just above idle rpm and turns off around ~5000rpm'ish. don't quote me exactly on that though.

the power fc guys require the fc datalogit (laptop program) to be able to access the function.

i know that doesn't exactly answer your questions, but hopefully it'll provide a little grounds for discussion.

Cheers, Yeah meant the AFC Neo, Apexi Air Flow Convertor 'neo', it calls itself number 4 (upgraded from a SAFC2 because i thaught it had VCT altering functions)

Yeah i understand what your saying about how to decide when to activate the VCT, i just now need to figure out how to make it automatically engage at that point.

Ill properly talk to my tuner about it when i get the car ready, just waiting on damn extractors, and loom

Edited by SKiT_R31

is 6200 the rev limiter for the 25de ??? coz thats when mine bounces back.. i thought it was 7500 ??

the engine needs wayy more torque is crap at speeds goin from 5th to 4th just to speed up and usuing 3rd to hold power... anything under 3000rpm is terrible

mine sees 7000 regularly at QR, it tends to taper off around 6800ish anyway

4500-6500 is usually about the thick of it for me, very thick and chunky through there.

i agree, could do with abit of torque, but at the end of the day it's a 2500cc motor. you'll need cubes for torque.

the rb is a fairly revvy motor, and i personally think that's what makes it fun.

with regards to 'under 3000rpm is terrible'

- the high gearing and ratios have something to do with it, especially when you are just cruising around

- i have no dramas getting a decent progressive punch 1st and 2nd on the motorkhana and skidpan.

ah k well maybey because mine is in a R31 the tacho reading might be wrong.. yeah true with the gearing but similar stuff at 100kays... 5th to 3rd.. again..

im doin RB30DE very soon...

wat i was going to ask is...

what series head do i have its a 93 RB25DE the afm has 4 wires if that helps is that S1 or S2 ? yes it has VCT...

i want to buy camshafts of Nengun i belive its cheaper than just jap... which ones are good for midrange power ? keeping in mind it will be for RB30DE..

My limiter with a stock 25DE ecu, was at exactly 6800rpm, now have a Mines ECU with no limiter... - goign to get somthing like a jaycar and set it at ~ 7000-7200rpm (or whever power drops off, dont want to take it much further than that though, it is a 30 block after all)

are you goign to fully balence it, maybe get a new harmonic balencer? dont forget 30e's have bad harmonic issues in mid 7k rev range

being 93 i would have said S1, but 4 AFM wires!?

Edited by SKiT_R31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...