Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas Light On For The First 15 Mins Of Driving Around

dan.1337
 Share

Recommended Posts

dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
Posted

I've read a couple of things about why HICAS lights come on (power steering fluid low, alternator gone, HICAS dead), but my situation seems a little different.

It comes on when I cold start the car, and once I've been driving around for about 15 mins it switches off. Then it'll come back on only if things get a bit tail happy or traction is lost. Otherwise, it seems to stay off.

Is this normal?

phenline Mentor

phenline

Posted
Posted
I've read a couple of things about why HICAS lights come on (power steering fluid low, alternator gone, HICAS dead), but my situation seems a little different.

It comes on when I cold start the car, and once I've been driving around for about 15 mins it switches off. Then it'll come back on only if things get a bit tail happy or traction is lost. Otherwise, it seems to stay off.

Is this normal?

do you have an aftermarket steering wheel and Boss kit because this can cause problems if it isnt all alligned up

dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The steering feels normal and my wheel is completely stock. Same with the suspension.

It does go off after about 15 mins of driving tho and only switches back on if the wheels spin - but goes straight back off once there's traction again.

FATAZZ Grand Master

FATAZZ

Posted
Posted

mines been doing exactly the same,but i warm mine up for 10minutes,so

the light goes off sooner,i put it down to cold fluid.

not sure about when the wheels spin as im looking where i want to be going

this has confirmed my decission in removing hicas.

i been reading all the hicas threads for months and its just easier to get rid of it

NV_NO1 sells the lock bar for $70

im just finding someone to remove it for me now.

dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
  • Author
Posted
how is your speedo needle, does it boogie?

it actually does sometimes. today i also noticed i was doing 180kmh at 2500rpm in 3rd gear. then it went back to normal. weird =S

i might just invest in a lock bar in the near future.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Chupapy
      New r33 owner

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...