Jump to content
SAU Community

Water Methiol Injection

zdream

By zdream,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

zdream Contributor

zdream

Posted
Posted

There is a Snow perforamance water,methiol injector kit for sale on ebay,I was thinking about placing a bid.

Everything I have read on this is promising, but I was hoping to get a bit more insite into it. Has anybody had experiance with these?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...p;rd=1&rd=1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173970-water-methiol-injection/
Share on other sites
BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted

A basic MAF setup like that is pretty good for $400, but you always run the risk of buying something that is stuffed.

http://aquastealth.com/index.asp?PageActio...dID=88&HS=1

I bought one of these ^^ kits from the U.S. a couple months ago all up cost $280AUD to get it to my door step. These are really good quality for the money. They have the same 140psi shurflow pump as other brands - boost cooler, snow performance etc. The becooling setup is nearly identical to this unit http://www.full-throttle.com.au/Engine/stage1.htm except over half the price and has a better electrical solenoid rather than a crappy anti-drain back valve of BoostCooler kit.

Although this is not a MAF tunable kit, you can adapt any variable injection unit to this setup. You can even go one better than the eBay kit and get a fully programmable MAF computer that can inject water according to load vs rpm, which is what I'm looking at doing in the near future. These MAF computers can be had cheap from countries where WI is popular U.K, U.S.

I'm yet to tune or dyno my setup but from I've noticed so far there is less knock, more pull on hot days and the intake manifold is now cool to touch after going for a run. I doubt at the moment this setup is making much more power as the WI is only set off late and the ignition timing hasn't been touched yet. But once I add methanol and get a full tune at 19psi the gains should be really noticeable.

Devils_Advocate21 Mentor

Devils_Advocate21

Posted
Posted

There was results and discussions on a person called " The Mafia" in the FI area of what he used and what he got etc. check it out and im sure relavent site info on where to purchase or what he purchased etc

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
A basic MAF setup like that is pretty good for $400, but you always run the risk of buying something that is stuffed.

http://aquastealth.com/index.asp?PageActio...dID=88&HS=1

I bought one of these ^^ kits from the U.S. a couple months ago all up cost $280AUD to get it to my door step. These are really good quality for the money. They have the same 140psi shurflow pump as other brands - boost cooler, snow performance etc. The becooling setup is nearly identical to this unit http://www.full-throttle.com.au/Engine/stage1.htm except over half the price and has a better electrical solenoid rather than a crappy anti-drain back valve of BoostCooler kit.

Although this is not a MAF tunable kit, you can adapt any variable injection unit to this setup. You can even go one better than the eBay kit and get a fully programmable MAF computer that can inject water according to load vs rpm, which is what I'm looking at doing in the near future. These MAF computers can be had cheap from countries where WI is popular U.K, U.S.

I'm yet to tune or dyno my setup but from I've noticed so far there is less knock, more pull on hot days and the intake manifold is now cool to touch after going for a run. I doubt at the moment this setup is making much more power as the WI is only set off late and the ignition timing hasn't been touched yet. But once I add methanol and get a full tune at 19psi the gains should be really noticeable.

What else did you buy with the standard kit?

zdream Contributor

zdream

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes this kit does have a MAF computer with it that injects the water,methiol at a rate according to the amount of boost at the given rate of pedel mashing,so you dont flood the engine with excess methiol or water,its has its own computer in this kit,it seam to be the top line model for the right price.

BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted
There was results and discussions on a person called " The Mafia" in the FI area of what he used and what he got etc. check it out and im sure relavent site info on where to purchase or what he purchased etc

http://www.full-throttle.com.au/Engine/Boost%20Cooler.htm

The Mafia has one these^^. Full throttle are about the only distributer in Australia for WI and ask ridiculous amounts for these kits.

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

So could i buy one of these kits and just install it?

Does it spray all the time or only at certain boost levels?

because i would like the injection to be at certain points eg: full trottle,above 10psi things like that.

Still not to sure how these things work lol

But would love to get one mainly because of the fact it lowers the knock alot.

BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted

The kit I have activates at a set boost level. And you can adjust the psi it is activated with the boost sensor.

It's not the best setup as it consistently injects the same amount of water right over the rev range. This however can be tuned out by using less petrol down low to correct afr's, you are essentially just using the WI as a secondary source of fuel.

ish Proficient

ish

Posted
Posted (edited)

Why would you want to inject water to stop detination , this technology was pioneered way before the availability and easy use of programmable ECU'S which kind of eliminated the need for Auxillury ping control.... save your money and get a PFC or a wolf 3D and recieve way more freedom and piece of mind !

Edited by ish
BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted
Why would you want to inject water to stop detination , this technology was pioneered way before the availability and easy use of programmable ECU'S which kind of eliminated the need for Auxillury ping control.... save your money and get a PFC or a wolf 3D and recieve way more freedom and piece of mind !

Very closed minded statement.

I've got a PFC, the point being to raise the octane level with the use of methanol, it's far better than randomly adding toluene, additives etc. to the fuel tank as WI is always going to inject the same amount.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Sorry ish, but your off the mark. These kits are a cheap way to stop detonation [pinging] when your running high boost and a big turbo with a standard motor [you already have a pfc]. Normally you would rebuild and use forgies and a metal spacer head gasket to lower compression then run more boost safely. But with a standard motor you can lower combustion temperature with WMI.

You wouldn't use this system with a bog stock standard car, you would use a programmable ECU [pfc, wolf etc]. For an RB25 you are looking at 270rwkw or more [Mafia's rb25 has 300].

People like me are looking at this system as a way around a full rebuild.

ish Proficient

ish

Posted
Posted (edited)

your telling me i am Closed minded ! lol ok ... it wouldnt be that i have had these trigger systems before or anything!

the programmable out did it with no guesswork at all with higher octane fuel, premixed plus deppending on the ECU it can contain Auxillary's to inject what ever you need in sequence... not relying on some 3rd hand pressure switch to first gauge manifold pressures and then react....

We used to build these things ,,, there not much more than an adjustable hobbs pressure switch and a Hvolume pump....

good luck with that eye burning invisable crap.... :P

Edited by ish
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
Sorry ish, but your off the mark. These kits are a cheap way to stop detonation [pinging] when your running high boost and a big turbo with a standard motor [you already have a pfc]. Normally you would rebuild and use forgies and a metal spacer head gasket to lower compression then run more boost safely. But with a standard motor you can lower combustion temperature with WMI.

You wouldn't use this system with a bog stock standard car, you would use a programmable ECU [pfc, wolf etc]. For an RB25 you are looking at 270rwkw or more [Mafia's rb25 has 300].

People like me are looking at this system as a way around a full rebuild.

BINGO! I agree 100%. I have a PFC also and when i get up into the teens in psi i get some knock its been as high as 120.Even tho the car has been tuned twice by two very reputable tuners there will always be knock of some sort.

These systems will get rid of my knock and allow me to run the desired boost i want with some sort of saftey barrier.

Ill be fitting all my parts some time in the next few weeks and the price of one of these systems is way cheaper than getting my motor rebuilt.

BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted
BINGO! I agree 100%. I have a PFC also and when i get up into the teens in psi i get some knock its been as high as 120.Even tho the car has been tuned twice by two very reputable tuners there will always be knock of some sort.

These systems will get rid of my knock and allow me to run the desired boost i want with some sort of saftey barrier.

Ill be fitting all my parts some time in the next few weeks and the price of one of these systems is way cheaper than getting my motor rebuilt.

There's something else going on there and WI alone will not fix the issue. Knock should never reach that level and I would advise you not to drive your car 'hard' until you have that fixed.

I really think your tuner/s have something to answer for... Sounds like very lean afr's, what other mods do you have? could also be related to faulty fuel related parts i.e. afm, pump, injectors etc. or knock sensor troubles.

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
There's something else going on there and WI alone will not fix the issue. Knock should never reach that level and I would advise you not to drive your car 'hard' until you have that fixed.

I really think your tuner/s have something to answer for... Sounds like very lean afr's, what other mods do you have? could also be related to faulty fuel related parts i.e. afm, pump, injectors etc. or knock sensor troubles.

Mods are in sig.AFRs are 11.9 across the board.I have a new Nismo fuel pump,inj duty doesnt go above 80%.

My guess is there is too much timing above 5500rpm which is when the knock occurs.Will be up grading a few things soon so it will be tuned yet again.All will be sorted hopefully.

ish Proficient

ish

Posted
Posted
BINGO! I agree 100%. I have a PFC also and when i get up into the teens in psi i get some knock its been as high as 120.Even tho the car has been tuned twice by two very reputable tuners there will always be knock of some sort.

These systems will get rid of my knock and allow me to run the desired boost i want with some sort of saftey barrier.

Ill be fitting all my parts some time in the next few weeks and the price of one of these systems is way cheaper than getting my motor rebuilt.

:yes:

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

BAMR33,

I'll be watching your results closely. :P

The price of the kit almost appears too good to be true. Be sure to let us know how it goes.

I'm looking at a WI kit to push the turbo and pump fuel to its limits.

Dropping static comp is not the way to go running big boost and lots of power on pump fuel. Adding WI is. :mrt:

When do you plan to have it tuned?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...