Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That is so gay man it is STEVO gay ! let us know ASAP! please need to know now bud not in a few weeks because we need to let the VIC's know
Oh no Mitch!!! :)

Thats gay news...Hope you get it fixed up!

This is true what Andrew was saying we do need to know soon rather then later if your cabin will have spare spots...

I know Steveo and Slide are both looking for beds :thumbsup:

i'll be coming

It will take no time to put it on Mr moo you cant lose your spot as we need as many people from NSW as possible.

Morning ANNA

i'm not doing deca, doing winton and watching deca, and should be back on the road this weekend(thanks anna)

  • Replies 951
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I removed my handbreak boot and drilled a small hole through the base of the handbreak while depressing the button. The hole was right next to the ratchet release and I just put a little 2mm thick bold through it.

Pull it off - have a look and this will make sense. A small bolt can hold the handbreak in.

Thanks. I suspected there might be some trick like this.

Stevo is Gay !
Fu(king homos!! :)

*sigh*

I just figured out if you spell out Cefiro backwards and add a H you get = Horifec sounds like horrific..... ahahaha :huh::)

:)

Funny cause its true :)

P.s., i made it with 1 min to spare :)

Okay then.....

lets try this...

Whoever gets best time for Winton between you and me, loser has to put a sign on their rear windscreen for all Saturday DECA saying

"I have herpes" :laughing-smiley-014:

f**k.

I miss those bets :)

You 2 had better believe our "bets" will be on again for my GTR's return to Eastern Creek :)

Haven't been on here in a while.

If im not in hospital ill be there with Steve.

f**kin` A.

Deca > Hospital

Ok guys,

Here is the new design.. what do you think?

Some little tweaks still need to be made.. but you get the jist.

I will be doing the NSW shirts in Black and the VIC shirts in White or Grey which ever they wish.

post-26741-1186700729_thumb.jpg

Hmmm I really like the old design better :nyaanyaa: and preferred that we were all one colour..

Some of us dont really want to make it all about the drinking (Beer, torque, racing), if you know what I mean...

I know but the problem is..

*Screen printing is too expencive because of set up costs..

*If its on one thing it can be printed out easily from my printer guy. which makes things alot cheaper

*I like the beer mug (alot of other people seem to as well) .. remember it doesnt just have btr on it, it also has team wang on it.. I've gotten the ok from team wang.

*VIC prefer to be a different colour then NSW which is their choice and i'm going to respect their wishes..

Thats cool...If Vic wanted to be a different colour...

I understand the cost that would be involved..

I just like the other design better thats all

So when can this all go ahead as we are running out of time :nyaanyaa: Did you get a price? :thumbsup:

Thats cool...If Vic wanted to be a different colour...

I understand the cost that would be involved..

I just like the other design better thats all

So when can this all go ahead as we are running out of time :nyaanyaa: Did you get a price? :thumbsup:

Jess, Chill..

Lol...

I've expained when the deadline is to my guy.

The prices will be cheaper then the screen printed ones so they should be under $40 I will confirm this soon.

What I need is everyone who wants a shirt to let me know.. I will post up a separate thread in the events section with a big list of names, number of shirts and sizes..

If you're not on the list just confirm in the thread.

I'm happy with whatever everyone else wants.... but (and i know you said there is final tweaking) I think you should reduce the BTR logo slightly because it overpowers the team wang part a bit.

That's one of the final tweaks that needs to be done, don't worry :nyaanyaa:

New thead is up.

Yeah whateva.. although I did prefer the first ones.. but Im easy....

Yea sorry about that guys..

This just keeps the cost down quite alot.. I think with a design like that it's just to costly to do.

Plus you can wear these new ones out drinking! wooO!!

I miss those bets :)

SAME! It sucks because neither of you two come out to play anymore!

can't wait till winton.. can't wait till winton.. can't wait till winton!

ps the bet has been confirmed.... I think it's the third bet we've made on that particular show down lol

it's now a case of beer... ....oh and someone bring the chalk pen!

SAME! It sucks because neither of you two come out to play anymore!

can't wait till winton.. can't wait till winton.. can't wait till winton!

ps the bet has been confirmed.... I think it's the third bet we've made on that particular show down lol

it's now a case of beer... ....oh and someone bring the chalk pen!

Please clarify the 3 bets.... :)

1. Case of beer bought by loser for winner

2. Loser displays 'sign' on rear windscreen containing a 'msg'

3. ???????




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...