Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys its a funny idea i know but i want a car suitable for drift and curcuit work in one so im lookin at a 32 gtr and for drift i will be using a rb25 gearbox and gtr sump with the front diff chopped off to save weight and stop the front end being soo heavy. now i want to get rid of the front driveshafts (axles) going to the brake hubs. how do i go about this? do i need to replace the suspension arms etc with 2wd ones or can the shafts be removed on the gtr ones and its fine to bolt rims on and go drifting?

please dont tell me to buy a 2wd as i want the option of both, and i know sump off is an engine out job but thats simple ive done it plenty of times in the past :)

any info welcome

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174350-making-a-gtr-2wd-for-good/
Share on other sites

I have just made my GTR full time rwd to test a motor I am building, as I didnt want to change the tailshaft and leave the gtr box I did it all so I can change it all back.

You need the front driveshaft to hold the hub bearings in, so I simply put my front shafts in the lathe and parted them off at the abs sensor and bolted them back into the hub.

I then cut the diff off a gtr sump to make it rear wheel drive only and it still works as per factory.

I also cut the transfere case off a GTR and took all the 4wd stuff out then re welded up the whole.

Hey Daniel thats exactly the info i needed mate, thanks for your input :/

2630GTS i want the car for circuit work as well so i would rather 4wd option for that purpose as the rb26 i have currently in my current ride has 605rwhp and thats what im going to install in the gtr. gtr's also have ally bonnet etc and better brakes which makes it ideal, and i need a 26 spare engine to put into my current ride to replace this one so all in all its easier and cheaper with a better outcome :thumbsup:

cheers again guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...