Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've been looking everywhere for replacement globes for my R-32

but no luck. :mrt:

apparently i need to find the 'H3C' type globe to fit the R-32

does anyone know where i can find these type of globes..

anywhere besides ebay and JAPAN.

i want to get a nice white coloured beam.. and i just cbf get HIDs right now.

thanks.

Tim.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174478-where-to-get-1992-r32-gts-t-globes/
Share on other sites

From what i have found early R32's (ie mine) use a H3C low beam and a H3 high beam. Later R32's that i have looked at are H1 low and H1 high.

As for replacement H3C globes with a whiter/bluer light, decent ones are hard to come by. Philips or Narva don't make them. I tired a set from ebay which had a nice coloured light but only lasted a couple of months. Then i tried a set of Autotecnica ones and one of the globes blew within 5 minutes of putting it in. Then when i pulled it out again it basically disintegrated in my hands.

Might be worth saving up for HID's unless one of the Japanese manufactures makes a decent quality replacement globe.

From what i have found early R32's (ie mine) use a H3C low beam and a H3 high beam. Later R32's that i have looked at are H1 low and H1 high.

As for replacement H3C globes with a whiter/bluer light, decent ones are hard to come by. Philips or Narva don't make them. I tired a set from ebay which had a nice coloured light but only lasted a couple of months. Then i tried a set of Autotecnica ones and one of the globes blew within 5 minutes of putting it in. Then when i pulled it out again it basically disintegrated in my hands.

Might be worth saving up for HID's unless one of the Japanese manufactures makes a decent quality replacement globe.

ohhh dam. so ur saving up for HID's hey?

so your saying there might be a possiblilty that my globes are H1's. that would be sweet.

i went into autbarn and talked to some guy for 1 hour about lights and R-32s..

he said hes tried getting H3 bulbs and then welding them onto the H3C bulb holder thing. that just sounds like TOO much hard work. but a possibility.

i guess HID's are the way to go hey.

time to make some money lol.

DUDE....

H3c's come from any local auto store, or a rice carshop or ANYWHERE it's a lighting fitment

take your light globe out.... the broken one, take it out...

..no, ACTUALLY TAKE IT OUT it's not that difficult,

look at the base, find out and buy the globe you need,

as for HID.... GET IT.... it's an actual investment not a modification because you can see so much better i have a cefiro and the advantages of the HID system are amazing

I agree, HID's are a good upgrade in a way. They light up the entire road, but you're also blinding on coming traffic. I've got a HID kit installed at the moment and if I were to upgrade headlights again, I would go retro fitting. Much better cut off line and no hot spots at all. Only down side to retro fitting is that it's very expensive.

I just blew one fo mine...

a low beam for a 89....

wat type do i need...?

i dont have my car near me this weeks so i cant pull it out, i thought id get the globes b4 i get the car back

wat is the type?

explain the numbers and H1 H3 HC3???

cheers

Chances are, you have the H3C's in your car mate. I'm not positive that they're H3C, but it's most likely. Only way to know is wait till your car comes back and make sure.

H1, H3 and H3C are just the names of the types of globes. They have different focus points and are different sizes (I think H3 and H3C are similar though, but not the same).

autobarn have a few to choose from , i got the phillips crystal vision for my 32. was about 80 a pair. you could probally get cheaper if you shoped around. much whiter and clearer then stock without blowing my wallet on HIDs

H3c's are common now more than a couple of years ago, so dont stress about finding them. A few sponsors on here sell them as well, if not try ns.com as well.

Its a good idea to fit a twin relays as well for the high low beam as the light switch sometimes burns out as there isnt one fitted. This can also make the std lighting appear brighter.

headlight-1.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...