Jump to content
SAU Community

What Is Push To Pull Regarding Clutches

Fujiwara
 Share

Recommended Posts

Fujiwara Proficient

Fujiwara

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

I've tried a search on the forums but no posts quite answer the question.

What exactly is this?

As i am looking for a new clutch (maybe exedy series or ORC 709D)

For the ORC it states that "In order to make this clutch Push to Pull a geniune Clutch Kit is needed"

What is pust to pull or pull to push?

And what are out clutches setup as from factory?

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
Posted

All GT-R's from late 91 onwards use pull type clutches- the clutch fork, via the thrust bearing, pulls on the pressure plate rather than depressing it. It allows a higher clamping force for the same spring pressure owing to the way the pressure plate fingers are fulcrumed. Helpful in an AWD car. Most manual cars just use a push type clutch. Not sure about ur GTT though. Someone will post the answer in a sec I'm sure.

mattymagoo22 Community Regular

mattymagoo22

Posted
Posted

I didn't think it had anything to do with clamping pressure. It's more to do with space, the pull type assembly is much more compact, alot of late models cars use it WRX pajero and magna and I think series II r33 onwards.

My thoughts.

Fujiwara Proficient

Fujiwara

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ahh cool.

Just had my clutch replaced under warranty and found that someone in Japan did a conversion.

It was a Pull...but now it's a Push type.

Probably happened when they fit the ORC twin plate clutch in...

meh...

They said thatn when i order clutched i have to ask for the R32 and R33 type clutches???

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest101 Newbie

Guest101

Posted
Posted

Everything about a 'Pull' type is better than a 'push' type..

Push type are an old design.

Pull type are harder to install.

Pull type will result in a higher pressure clamp on the pressure plate, but they also have more efficient leverage at the bearing, so results in a lighter pedal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • f00stx
      Intro/R33 owner

      By f00stx · Posted

      Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • f00stx
      Second time Skyline owner (R33 GTS-T and now a V36 370GT)

      By f00stx · Posted

      Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Kinkstaah
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...