Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

just wondering if anyone runs a screamer pipe on a road car and if so how much cop trouble do you get with it? my car is only a weekend driver and doesnt get driven hard when there is a chance of being pulled up. thinkin bout custom making a front pipe with screamer and just wanted to see what other peoples opinions are about em on a road car!

cheers cheers!

brett

I run an external gate with screamer pipe. But cause i have the bigger turbo and the external wastegate only opening up when its near full boost its easier to control the noise. From what i have seen on the split dumps with screamers there just a noise bag most of the time esp with a standard or small turbo.

I run an external gate with screamer pipe. But cause i have the bigger turbo and the external wastegate only opening up when its near full boost its easier to control the noise. From what i have seen on the split dumps with screamers there just a noise bag most of the time esp with a standard or small turbo.

yeah im just runnin standard turbo for the moment and was just gunna make a seperator plate or sumthin. if being driven slow is there any reason a smart cop would be able to pick it? or ya reakon just ditch the idea till i get bigger turbo?

id say ditch it till bigger turbo...

standard turbo comes on boost round 2.5k - 3k so she'll be loud all the time when driving :)

fair call, makes sence! thanks 4 da advice

if they know what there are looking for screemer pipe = $9000+gst. fine. same as no cat converter. cos its a deliberate modification to miss the cat.

most of the time they dont know what it is. they look at it and say "ahhhh blow of valve pipe" lol.

i used to have one. it was cool but got anoying after a while. and i rekon if your car doesnt do tens its not worthy :)

hey this is a good chance to pitch my idea.

not sure if you guys have seen those new mufflers that have a butterfly valve in them so you can control the flow of exhaust and thus the noise level?

well i was thinking why not modify a split dump, so just past the join have either a swing valve, or a butterfly valve that you can control from the car using the same remote that comes with the controllable muffler?

the valve just needs to open and close the screamer or be able to redirect the air flow. that way you have a choice if you want screamer or star fish. i don't know maybe its been done before? The only problem I can think of is a cheap mech to operate the valve that can stand the high temps of that part of the process.

If this doesn't make sense say so and I will draw up a diagram of what I mean, be warned tho I’m no engineering student

yeah im just runnin standard turbo for the moment and was just gunna make a seperator plate or sumthin. if being driven slow is there any reason a smart cop would be able to pick it? or ya reakon just ditch the idea till i get bigger turbo?

Stock turbo = screamer pointless.

It sounds dreadful to begin with, and then you need the dump pipe well made otherwise it leaks trying to vent the internal gate to ATMO which makes it sound even worse.

Your better off with a decent flowing split dump on a stock, or near stock turbo.

That said, I used to run 45mm ext gate/screamer setup on the street back in 2004/05

I wouldnt dream of it in Melb in 2007. Its a massive defect & EPA waiting to happen.

Most people i know have plumbed in ext gates that once were atmo :)

I was defected back in 2005 for the ext gate/screamer, and the law/EPA have only become tougher and tougher since then.

Its really not worth the hassle.

mate has one on his R34 GT-t, i find the sound kinda of appealing and it isnt open that often (if driven right) has been pulled over heaps but never got done for it (combination of luck and stupidity on the cop's part). thing that i dont like about it is the fluttering from the boost controller opening and closing it rapidly. sounds like Hanibal Lectre when hes talkin bout eatin the kidney and fava beans. fs fsfshsfhs fshf shf fhsfs

Just get a straight thru pipe from the cat all the way..

I had it on mine for a day at track day and its freaking loud.. so loud that even with a helmet on and windows up, my ears nearly went deaf!!

heheh

mate has one on his R34 GT-t, i find the sound kinda of appealing and it isnt open that often (if driven right) has been pulled over heaps but never got done for it (combination of luck and stupidity on the cop's part). thing that i dont like about it is the fluttering from the boost controller opening and closing it rapidly. sounds like Hanibal Lectre when hes talkin bout eatin the kidney and fava beans. fs fsfshsfhs fshf shf fhsfs

hahahaha yeeah nice example! thinkin its prob not worth it, have heard if you get a cluey cop they will take photos under toys car and hand it onto epa.

as for the open/closable pipe i have heard of it being done using a gate and allen key open close system, buggered if i know how it works tho!

thanks for the info guys, appriciate it

brett

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...