Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What do they actually replace with these high flow units? And what kind of thrust bearings do they use? old, new, 360o? I have had mutiple garrett units fail in various applications and seem to see similar characteristics in all. However am yet to see it in my trust units...just wondering if there are any noted differences here.

LOL yes, but what components are used, what thrust washers.

I do know that two b/b units built by garrett only used smaller degree thrust washers, turbos failed soon after, apparently rebuilds do not automatically qualify for the 360o thrust washer...perhaps this is the problem.

So no one can confirm exactly what is used in each application? Or if its actually brand new?

Also in the failed applications are ppl running bovs?

The added surge increases load on smaller degree thrusts, (under 360o thrusts might already be a problem in themselves) and can easily be one of the contributing factors to these failures, not just in ball bearing units, but in all turbos.

Edited by 33gtst

You can always ring GCG if your worried.

For the 1000's of units they have no doubt sold, one or two failed. Doesnt mean much to me.

I had a GT30 fail in less than 5,000km's. But thats just how it goes.

ok so it doesnt mean much to you, but I was simply replying to what I believe might be one of the contributing factors as to why these units are failing...which is the original question, so I think it might matter to salad.

I'm certainly not worried, I have tried turbos from gcg, garrett, nissan and I will never install another garrett/or garrett supplied unit on any of my vehicles, but this thread wasnt about me.

I'm still yet to see valid evidence of how no BOV actually damages a turbo.

It just seems weird to me that all oem vehicles since the early 1990's come std with factory fitted bovs..I guess they like the wank factor and have no justification for them whatsoever. I'm sure they actually have put in substancial r + d into this prior to the added expense of fitment and supply on their vehicles. However sadly I cant confirm the exact reason, I can only speculate from what I have seen and tried with my cars and my garrett dramas.

Im not saying no bov causes premature turbo failure, on its own, but perhaps when consistancies are appearing in these failures that has to mean something.

Are the thrusts unable to cope with the added surge, that maybe the 360o thrusts cope better with? Are those running a bov still experiancing the same failure and symptoms?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...