Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-1991 s13 silvia k's sr20det (Non-HiCas + Non ABS)

-Genuine sr20 k's converted to manual with a proven 185.3 rwkw on 18psi.(still running stock computer and injectors)

(with old tubo setup/tuned length exhaust manifold and t28 ball bearing turbo and stock exhaust)

NOT YET BOOSTED UP OR DYNO TESTED WITH NEW EXHAUST AND TURBO SETUP!! HOWEVER IS NOTICEABLY MORE

TORQUEY ON 7 PSI OF BOOST. SHOULD BE ITERESTING WILL POST AS SOON AS IT IS TESTED!!!

-Modified close ratio 5speed s14 gearbox.

-140XXX original klms.

-400hp fuel pump

-Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg (rising rate)

-Custom oil catch can

-Rubber vaccume hoses replaced with simota Silicone hoses

-Annodised oil temp sensor mounting block (NEW)

-new oil hoses and annodised oil fiitings on tubo(new/all speedflow fittings used)

-Top mounted T3 Bush Bearing turbo(like new)

-Stainles steel top mount tuned length exhaust manifold(new)

-38mm external waste gate with screamer pipe(new)

-3"cat back exhaust(new)

-Alluminium radiator overflow tank

-Front mount intercooler kit fitted

-Battery relocated to the boot

-Earth kit fitted to engine

-32mm rear sway bar fitted

-BLITZ boost pressure,exhaust temp,oil temp and water temp gauges with memmory recall(fitted)

-GReddy boost gauge with adjustable warning and memory recall

-FIELD digital fuel adjuster

-S14 ignition coils fitted

-DNA motorsport boost control valve (new)

-Electric thermofans fitted

-Kenwood Double-din headunit with mini disc

-Apline 11band graphic equaliser

-2x400watt 2 channel amps for in car speakers

-JBL 4x6" front speaker 200watts each

-JBL 6" splits rear 280watts each

-1 farrad capacitor

-Pioneer 800watt monoblock amplifer

-Fusion wiring fitted

-2x fusion encounter 15" subs dual voice coil (500 watts per coil) BRAND

-New battery (heavy duty bosch)

-Interior retrimmer in creame & Black with black stitch

-1Farrad capacitor

-Momo steering wheel

-Momo boss kit

-Momo gear knob

-Apexi turbo timer

-New good year eagle NTC5 tyres fitted- 4months old.

-series 1 s13 silvia headlights fitted

-Serviced every 5000kms using genuine nissan parts

-Brake pads replaced (front and rear 6 months ago)

-Exedy extra heavy duty clutch with 1200kg pressure plate (8months old)

-Power windows

-Power mirrors

-Climate control

-Central locking

-Power antenna

-Tinted windows

-NO RUST

PROBLEMS:

-Oil leak from gearbox tail shaft seal (being repaired as we speak)fitting new genuine seal now

-Small dent behind drivers door

-Paint chips on front and rear bars

-Damaged rear quarter due to being hit in a car park (has been sprayed over)

-Various small dings and scratches

-Bonnet needs respray

BONUSES: (not fitted)

-All original stock parts

-Willans racing harness

-5zigen intercooler pipe (to suit upgraded front mount)

-Spare rear bumper

-Genuine club K'S badges (very rare) all brand new in box

-Genuine S15 silvia badges

-Just been serviced with all genuine nissan parts(have recipts)

-Oil leaks are being repaired as we speak

Car has alot of potential.

Rego until september 9th (rego due in 2 months will negotiate price to compansate)

Asking 11,500 ONO, serious buyers only no reasonable offer refused will swap for good condition soarer gt25tt or skyline gts-t r32 onwards with under kms 150,000

(if interested please email or ring Dave and i will gladly email the latest pictures)

CONTACTS:

0422602440 (Dave)

or

[email protected]

Edited by MR FLWLSS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175368-1991-s13-ks-sr20det-nsw-sydney/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi mate, are you sure it was originally an SR20 K's? I thought all the SR20 K's had 5 stud hubs?

does it have a sunroof?

Yes it is a genuine sr20 det ks silvia it is a non sun roof model according to all the vin plates and the vin number stamped into the body and as for hubs all s13 series cars have 4 stud it doesnt matter what year model it is,weather its a silvia or 180sx, or weather its ca18 or sr20 all s13 series cars come as a 4 stud. 5 stud did not start till the s14 series cars.

post-40206-1185263644_thumb.jpg

Edited by MR FLWLSS

hi this is just a message to the guy who rang me about the car at about 6pm i think you said your name was dean, if you want to talk about it can you please leave your phone number on your messages otherwise i cant call you back thanks

Regards

Dave

can you go cheaper without the chromes ?

also was it run on 18psi or just for the dyno ??

it was run between 14-18 psi all day every day untill i put the big turbo on and removed the avcr

and sorry car has to go and so does everything that goes with it but the rims have good rubber and that so im sure you could onsell them to make some money

Edited by MR FLWLSS

yes its stock suspension except for the 36mm swaybar in the rear and the nolothane bushes in the caster rods and i have all the original parts and when i say all i mean all inc the white wheels and they have almost new tread on them

Edited by MR FLWLSS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...