250 Km From A Full Tank. Dam This Sux

[WogsRus]

Yes the car was up to operating temp and running and it was steady at 18mm HG. There was no change in idle speed and no change in 02 reading to indicate additional hydrocarbons, i used consults to dignose.

I have tested the ic form the turbo to TB, held 50 psi no loss.

I did also spray all the IC connections and IC itself, no change.

Edited July 5, 2007 by WogsRus

[RBwhatever]

Yes the car was up to operating temp and running and it was steady at 18mm HG. There was no change in idle speed and no change in 02 reading to indicate additional hydrocarbons, i used consults to dignose.

I have tested the ic form the turbo to TB, held 50 psi no loss.

I did also spray all the IC connections and IC itself, no change.

Did you pressure test the plenum? Open the throttle body next time you do the test so it pressurizes the plenum too, so if there's a leak in there you should be able to hear it.

[WogsRus]

I did that a while ago, but teh problem is so much dam air goes out the exhaust it is hard to hear if the air is escaping through the plenum or not.

[RBwhatever]

I did that a while ago, but teh problem is so much dam air goes out the exhaust it is hard to hear if the air is escaping through the plenum or not.

You can do it while the car is off.

[WogsRus]

that is whay i did, but since you can hear the air go out the exhaust, it's hard to hear anything in the engine bay.

Will do it again tonight to see.

[RBwhatever]

It shouldn't be going out the exhaust. The pressure should stay on the intake side and hold the pressure if there's no leaks.

[WogsRus]

humm there is no way that valves can be shit on all cylinders at one, unless you take the cams out, hence air goes out the exhaust.

[RBwhatever]

I'm only speaking from my own experience of when I was pressure testing my IC piping and plenum.

It seems that the air is going somewhere if it comes out the exhaust.

[WogsRus]

Well if the valve inlet is open and exhaust too, it will go straight through, correct?

Anyway i'll have a go again tonight, give the old soapy water a try and see.

[RBwhatever]

Well, myself having not actually had a look inside an RB before, in theory that sounds correct. But should they be both open at the same time at any time?

You don't have an adjustable exhaust cam do you?

Either way, If there's a leak somewhere, then wasted air = wasted fuel.

[WogsRus]

there is a certain amount of valve overlaop on the exhaust stroke from memory, i will rotate the cams to get the beast seal and see.

I agree that wasted air = wasted fuel, but it's a bitch trying to find it. LOL.

i will get another mates guage just to make sure mine is correct. The stock guage sits about half way between the bottom line and the first line from the bottom. so about -5 or what ever it is.

[WogsRus]

CORRECTION

guage is in inches of Hg so 17 in"HG not mm of Hg.

DUHHHHH

[Tangles]

straight out : what is your 'regular' driving style ?

[WogsRus]

Green means GO, Red means Go SLOW, lol.

Well my drive to work is 8 minuts at best, and i live in hobart which is hill central so it's hard to stay of boost all the time.

I do give it a squirt now and then, but not like i'm going sideways evewhere.

When my wife drives the car, she gets no better ecconomy then me, so either the car is screwed or she's a lead foot. LOL.

Edited July 6, 2007 by WogsRus

[mad082]

wind your boost down. you are using more fuel because you are running higher boost. the more air you put in the more fuel that has to go in to keep the afr's the same. you would probably benefit from a tune, but you still won't be able to get the fuel economy of someone running 10psi because they aren't putting as much air past the afm.

[WogsRus]

Arround touwn i run 10 or 7 psi depending, and ecoconomy stil shit. The tune was done at 15 psi and rechecked for lower boost levels and all showed to be fine.

Anyway tune next week so interested to find out what it is.

[mad082]

i used to get similar economy. i put it down to being a lead foot. i would cruise along at 60kmh, but everytime i accelerated it was full biscuit up to the speed limit.

[WogsRus]

thanks guys.

[MBS206]

Corinne says:

As much as I'm not a fan of the PFC, you should get one. - That's because you can't tune them properly wink.gif

You should use one device to control one element, at the moment you're using 2 devices to control one element. Not smart. They tangle each other up.

That and you may have lost your map in the SAFC - SAFC's are shit to tune.. they are very rough.. you can never get those flat spots out of them.

Corrine, PFC are frigging annoying to tune off of that little hand controller, especially when attempting to use map tracer at the same time to look where the engine is sitting, and then adjusting that!

And I never said the SAFC was good, I said it was possible he had lost his map from it.

[RBwhatever]

Corinne says:

As much as I'm not a fan of the PFC, you should get one. - That's because you can't tune them properly wink.gif

You should use one device to control one element, at the moment you're using 2 devices to control one element. Not smart. They tangle each other up.

That and you may have lost your map in the SAFC - SAFC's are shit to tune.. they are very rough.. you can never get those flat spots out of them.

Corrine, PFC are frigging annoying to tune off of that little hand controller, especially when attempting to use map tracer at the same time to look where the engine is sitting, and then adjusting that!

And I never said the SAFC was good, I said it was possible he had lost his map from it.

Who the heck tunes off the hand controller? You use the datalogit, a laptop and a wideband to tune them properly.

Edited July 6, 2007 by KeyMaker