Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just had the worst two days of my 1 month affair with this car....I am going to save the sob story and get to the current issue at hand though. I just picked it up from mechanics workshop after trying (failed) to fit a Exhaust manifold and successfully fitting the Front/Dump pipe, before the car went in it was running sweet, now I get it back on the drive home (A) it overheated (they came to where I had pulled over and filled up the Radiator) (B) it stalled at the lights and won't idle properly seems to be hunting.

I have cleaned the AAC valve and the AFM, reset the ECU, they did say the BOV was hooked up wrong and hooked it up as you see in the pictures, can anyone tell me if I'm missing something apart from I got shafted.....

Should I remove the bleed valve and put the standard solinoid back into action, it is Brand new aswell.

Can anyone tell from these pics if it's all hooked up ok?

Any help appreciated :)

post-11382-1183627609_thumb.jpg

post-11382-1183627698_thumb.jpg

post-11382-1183627848_thumb.jpg

ouch. take it to someone else who knows what they're doing - although in cairns your options might be limited.

i would be spitting chips if my car came back from the mechanics with serious problems.

I have just removed the bleed valve from the setup and it's almost solved the problem, no more hunting on first startup of engine but it did however seem to drop to low a revs when I gave it a bit then pulled up quick with the clutch in...

But how do I plumb the boost controller in anyone?

I know one end goes to the waistegate actuator and the other goes to the nipple on the stock cast piping but what do I do with the two hoses hanging off the existing Solenoid am I supposed to use a T piece and plumb one of the hoses into it aswell and block the other one?

Sounds like a leak somwhere. check that all your hoses are connected. it can be somthing just as simple as the bov line not sealing properly or an idle control line.

Also was the bov working ok before you took it in.....it looks like the presure line to it should be going in the top inlet/outlet and not the side.

Do you remeber how it was hooked up before? ill have a look for some fitting diagrams for the type RS bovs and post up the results for you :)

Andrew

Thanks andrew yes I have been crawling all over it looking/listening for leaks. The BOV is hooked up differently the mechanic said it was incorrect? It sounds louder now though with more of a sqeak noise than a woosh when it goes off, there is no other pipes into it only the one at front, that piece you see at the top is a thread with a nut looks like it keeps it all together? The pipe going into the BOV used to be routed back to a T piece somewhere just before the feed to the waistegate actuator I think.

Not sure about the boost controller mine only has 1 hose that uses a T piece to connect it to the actuator....But mine is a manual controller.

Yours sounds a bit more fancy than mine.

Andrew

This looks almost identical to my BOV http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Type-RS-Bov...2QQcmdZViewItem

It shows a T-Piece in the kit, mine is now not using a T-Piece at all, I think it did have before it went to the mechanics and they just removed it and put it straight into the intake plenum. does anyone have an install diagram for this type of BOV?

Not sure about the boost controller mine only has 1 hose that uses a T piece to connect it to the actuator....But mine is a manual controller.

Yours sounds a bit more fancy than mine.

Andrew

Mine is just a cheap Turbosmart manual bleed valve too, you can see it lying side ways in one of the pics, the outlet side goes to the Actuator and I'm not really sure where to get the input side from, I thought it was from the little nipple on side of piping but then what do I do with the piping going to the existing solenoid just plug it up?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...