Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

my S2 Stagea has popped it's alternator,and I require a replacement. nissan part no. is: 23100 0V017 it's a mitsubishi made unit,80 amp rating.

a quick local search on FAST tells me it's the same as an R34 GTT's unit.

if you have one of these available,please reply here,email me at [email protected] or call/sms 0418 663628.

thank you,

Justin...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176116-wtb-wgnc34r34-gtt-alternator/
Share on other sites

Hi all,

my S2 Stagea has popped it's alternator,and I require a replacement. nissan part no. is: 23100 0V017 it's a mitsubishi made unit,80 amp rating.

a quick local search on FAST tells me it's the same as an R34 GTT's unit.

if you have one of these available,please reply here,email me at [email protected] or call/sms 0418 663628.

thank you,

Justin...

took mine to a local autosparky and he fixed it cost around 100 bucks i think mind you wasnt a full rebuild but just the diode or whatever had blown wasnt a big job ... was on my old skyline

the rotor is open circuit on mine,which is one part you can't buy for these alternators. you can buy regulators and diode packs though,but neither of which help me.

nissan CAN get a new one over in two weeks or so,but it'd be over $1200 at my price!

I've bought an R33 alternator from just jap this arvo for $125,and the sparky at my work is going to pull it down in the morning to check it and see if it'll do the job. I'll likely end up with my old alternator with an R33 rotor in it. the 33 unit looks to be externally the same bar the 0V015 suffix on the part number,so hopefully it'll have a similar output and is in good enough nick to work on my S2.

fingers crossed.

Justin...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...