Jump to content
SAU Community

Ecu Issues R33 Gts25t - Ecu Guru Required

turbs33

By turbs33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

turbs33 Community Regular

turbs33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

I have a series 1 r33 manual with all standard mods. I sourced a new ecu which has been remapped. when the new ecu is plugged in problems arise...

Start car. This seems fine, idle high on cold map as expected. Note i have not tried revving the motor.

Now, here is the really weird bit. When moving the gear stick from side to side revs drop like a small miss and i hear the fuel pump cut out and turn back on. Now clutch in and select a gear and bang she stalls (clutch still in). engine check light is now on. Car needs to be turned off completely to clear engine check light.

Now with motor not running and ignition on (car turned off fully to clear engine check light) i move the gear stick as described above and can hear the fuel pump start priming again. So i switch on keys till red lights on dash (fuel pump primes) then after the fuel pump stops priming i move the gear stick to either the left or right and the fuel pump primes again. Something seems top be triggering this.

I unplugged the new ecu from the loom put my old ecu back in and she works.. Replugged the new tuned ecu into the car ensuring loom was connected tightly and this same thing resulted.

Is there some kind of switch around the gear box which sends signals back to the ecu?

OK ECU serial numbers etc

New tuned rom ecu (problem ECU)

23710-21U01

MEC-R521 A1 4321

Old standard ecu (Working Fine ECU)

23710-21U01

MEC-R521 A1 3X22

Any help would be much appreciated.

Edited by turbs33
Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

I know on my z32, the ecu raised the revs as soon as the gearstick was put into gear. Maybe try checking the wiring diagram to see if there is a sensor(im betting there is)You could try unplugging whatever wire detects that, if its the only problem with the ecu, you may have to live around it.

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

sounds like the map in the ecu is corrupt, when the neutral position switch is turned on/off (by moving gear selector) its turning fuel pump on and off.

the auto ecu uses this switch to raise idle up and down for when it goes in gear.

the ecu map is corrupt mate, and its using that input to do something other then it should.

or other alternative is the ecu is from another nissan vehicle that uses a different pinout.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...