Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

I dont think this is a major problem. I dont understand why people feel the need for huge launches at the start of runs sure it heats the tyres up but at the end of the day unless u are on a very short run up to turn 1 you can generally keep up plus u have a shit load of grunt 310kw i dont imagine there would be to many cars running rd that would really leave you for dead once you are up an going

In saying this if you feel this is a problem try as Majanal has said an raise the rear of the car. I have also heard of guys having less air pressure in there tyres to gain traction as there is more give.

i wouldn't have posted if it wasn't a problem, there are a few guys with a better power to weight ratio than me. i have tried softer rear springs and have taken some more weight out which helped a bit, but i'm still having trouble getting traction. can someone please explain how raising the back can help, i can't get my head around it. wouldn't you lower the back to transfer weight over the rear wheels?

as soon as the weight transfer stops where do you think the resulting reaction goes soon as the shocks gets to their lowest point.straight to the tyres.but then on lift (rebound)the tyres will begin to spin because the rear end will become lofty.

thats why having the rear end raised is a good idea for traction purposes.and thats why drag racers do it this way.

i couldn't keep up with the 300 on the the weekend dan, probably a good thing cause it might have been costly when you spun.

Yeah, sorry about that one mate, I of course didn't intend to spin in front of you.

We picked the 300 up a bit in the rear and it made instant changes to the drive off the line.

I wonder if the tyres are affecting it? Are you going to Oran this weekend?

its all in the rear geometry, what sort of traction rod mods and cradle angle mods are you using?

Remember to set up the traction rods you need to set it up on a wheel aligner without the rear shocks and simulate wheel travel and andjust them to the pont where there is as little toe change over the travel as possible (use you ride hieght as the cetre point). Secondly we had the same issue at eastern creek where the wheelworx car got way off the line and cat lost the second battle purely on lack of proximity. Changing to super pineapples extra 6mm inclination on the cradle has now fixed the launch issue and helped alot with drive out of corners.

check your lower control arm bushes too, i have seen huge dynamic changes in toe due to worn lower bushes.

Yeah, sorry about that one mate, I of course didn't intend to spin in front of you.

We picked the 300 up a bit in the rear and it made instant changes to the drive off the line.

I wonder if the tyres are affecting it? Are you going to Oran this weekend?

i was going to, but i am going to vic on the 8th instead

its all in the rear geometry, what sort of traction rod mods and cradle angle mods are you using?

Remember to set up the traction rods you need to set it up on a wheel aligner without the rear shocks and simulate wheel travel and andjust them to the pont where there is as little toe change over the travel as possible (use you ride hieght as the cetre point). Secondly we had the same issue at eastern creek where the wheelworx car got way off the line and cat lost the second battle purely on lack of proximity. Changing to super pineapples extra 6mm inclination on the cradle has now fixed the launch issue and helped alot with drive out of corners.

check your lower control arm bushes too, i have seen huge dynamic changes in toe due to worn lower bushes.

how should i set up the cradle? do you sell pineapples? my lower control arm bushes are worn out, i'll change them before the next round. now to find a wheel aligner with patience. :laughing-smiley-014: thanks for the advice.

Edited by DRIFTER

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...