Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

I dont think this is a major problem. I dont understand why people feel the need for huge launches at the start of runs sure it heats the tyres up but at the end of the day unless u are on a very short run up to turn 1 you can generally keep up plus u have a shit load of grunt 310kw i dont imagine there would be to many cars running rd that would really leave you for dead once you are up an going

In saying this if you feel this is a problem try as Majanal has said an raise the rear of the car. I have also heard of guys having less air pressure in there tyres to gain traction as there is more give.

i wouldn't have posted if it wasn't a problem, there are a few guys with a better power to weight ratio than me. i have tried softer rear springs and have taken some more weight out which helped a bit, but i'm still having trouble getting traction. can someone please explain how raising the back can help, i can't get my head around it. wouldn't you lower the back to transfer weight over the rear wheels?

as soon as the weight transfer stops where do you think the resulting reaction goes soon as the shocks gets to their lowest point.straight to the tyres.but then on lift (rebound)the tyres will begin to spin because the rear end will become lofty.

thats why having the rear end raised is a good idea for traction purposes.and thats why drag racers do it this way.

i couldn't keep up with the 300 on the the weekend dan, probably a good thing cause it might have been costly when you spun.

Yeah, sorry about that one mate, I of course didn't intend to spin in front of you.

We picked the 300 up a bit in the rear and it made instant changes to the drive off the line.

I wonder if the tyres are affecting it? Are you going to Oran this weekend?

its all in the rear geometry, what sort of traction rod mods and cradle angle mods are you using?

Remember to set up the traction rods you need to set it up on a wheel aligner without the rear shocks and simulate wheel travel and andjust them to the pont where there is as little toe change over the travel as possible (use you ride hieght as the cetre point). Secondly we had the same issue at eastern creek where the wheelworx car got way off the line and cat lost the second battle purely on lack of proximity. Changing to super pineapples extra 6mm inclination on the cradle has now fixed the launch issue and helped alot with drive out of corners.

check your lower control arm bushes too, i have seen huge dynamic changes in toe due to worn lower bushes.

Yeah, sorry about that one mate, I of course didn't intend to spin in front of you.

We picked the 300 up a bit in the rear and it made instant changes to the drive off the line.

I wonder if the tyres are affecting it? Are you going to Oran this weekend?

i was going to, but i am going to vic on the 8th instead

its all in the rear geometry, what sort of traction rod mods and cradle angle mods are you using?

Remember to set up the traction rods you need to set it up on a wheel aligner without the rear shocks and simulate wheel travel and andjust them to the pont where there is as little toe change over the travel as possible (use you ride hieght as the cetre point). Secondly we had the same issue at eastern creek where the wheelworx car got way off the line and cat lost the second battle purely on lack of proximity. Changing to super pineapples extra 6mm inclination on the cradle has now fixed the launch issue and helped alot with drive out of corners.

check your lower control arm bushes too, i have seen huge dynamic changes in toe due to worn lower bushes.

how should i set up the cradle? do you sell pineapples? my lower control arm bushes are worn out, i'll change them before the next round. now to find a wheel aligner with patience. :laughing-smiley-014: thanks for the advice.

Edited by DRIFTER

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...