Jump to content
SAU Community

Bleeding Clutch

The Dan

By The Dan,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

I saw that many people have trouble bleeding their clutch so I thought I would add this.

It is step by step, it works well for fluid flushes ect. but if you are installing a new master cylinder or lines you may need to 'repeat' the repeat steps.

I have referred to the fluid dampener as "funny little box" as this is what my customer called it and this was my reply to him...just cut and paste.

Bleeding MUST be done in the following way:

Fill reservoir (obviously)

Have someone watch level at ALL times as it only takes 4 pumps to drain it dry.

Following line is ONLY if reservoir has been empty.

1. Open line that goes into master....then apply clutch pedal.

2. Close off line....then return clutch pedal to original height.

3. Repeat 1 and 2 one more time.

4. Open line from master into 'funny little box'....then apply clutch pedal.

5. Close off line...then return pedal to original height

6. Repeat 4 and 5 one more time

Make sure you have someone checking the fluid level.

7. Open line out of 'funny little box'...then apply clutch pedal

8. Close off line...then return pedal

9. Repeat 7 and 8

10. Are you getting the idea? Move to the next line in sequence as you get closer to the slave. Making sure to include the bleeder on the 'funny little box'

The bleed must be done at each hose connection otherwise it will never be right. I have sometimes done it without doing each one but if you do it to all then it ALWAYS turns out good at the end.

Once you get to the slave just do the same as above. It must be - OPEN - PEDAL DOWN - CLOSE - PEDAL UP

Once you have done that twice on the slave and have closed the line off you can get the guy operating the pedal to pump the clutch pedal 5 or 6 times

Then when he holds it down you can open the line then close it again before he returns the pedal.

This should only need to be done once...if at all.

The pedal should be spot on at this point.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176479-bleeding-clutch/
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 2 months later...
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Pics?

There's an easier way if you haven't completely drained the whole system.

From the slave cylinder only - crack the bleed nipple, push the throwout fork towards the cylinder (forcing the pushrod into the slave)....while it's in, close the bleed nipple, then release the fork. The internal spring will force the piston in the slave out. This will draw the fluid through.

rinse and repeat.

If you really want photos I will post them up on the next one I do but it's really simple if you follow the instructions in the top post or this one.

The only problem with the second way is that if the fluid was completely drained dry, you will need to bleed the master first, then gravity bleed til it comes out the slave, then follow the instructions in this post.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176479-bleeding-clutch/#findComment-5301140
Share on other sites
Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

hey, thanks for that. i'm still pretty new to this stuff, i don't actually know where the master and slave cylinders are... i think if i could see it i'd understand it more if i could see it.

im having trouble with the clutch, it doesn't seem to fully disengage at high rpm, so i want to change the clutch fluid as opposed to just bleeding it. so much to learn lol, thanks for the help. if you could put some pics up it'd be awesome, thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176479-bleeding-clutch/#findComment-5301166
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
our12 Enthusiast

our12

Posted
Posted

Hi.

Just something to add. If you take your slave cylinder out to repair or simply look at when you refit it the bleeder must always be at the highest point as air always goes to the highest point.If its at the lowest point you will never bleed it succesfully. Had a mates brother who used 2 litres of brake fluid trying to bleed a slave cylinder- you gueesed it he had the bleeder at the lowest point and could not understand it was wrong as it was more convenient to get his bleeder tube onto the nipple when at the bottom.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176479-bleeding-clutch/#findComment-5321722
Share on other sites
  • 6 months later...
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey am i doing something wrong i've done the above procedure about 6 times and the clutch pedal is still going all the way down to the floor?

Cheers

Chi

It depends on what you did. Did you change the master cylinder for a new one?

If so, the master cylinder needs to be bled before installation (preferably) or you can do it after at the line that exits or if there is a bleed nipple on the master. Alternatively a lot of the time, you may have the system bled correctly but the master cylinder pushrod adjustment is incorrect which, in some cases, can make the pedal drop to the floor seeming like there is no pressure. When you change a master cylinder you need to ensure the pushrod fork is exactly the same dimensions as the original one and make sure the adjustment is close.

Bleeding the system is the easiest part

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176479-bleeding-clutch/#findComment-5634556
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey elite racing I didn't change the clutch master at all mmm I did ur step by step process still not working :/ clutch pedal still feels like there's nothing

Ok try this:

Get someone to watch the fluid level and top up as necessary.

Step 1: Open bleed nipple on slave cylinder

Step 2: Push clutch throwout fork towards slave cylinder so it pushes the pushrod back into the cylinder (fluid will come out of bleed nipple)

Step 3: While holding the pushrod still pushed in, close the bleed nipple

Step 4: Let go of the throwout fork and let the slave cylinder return outward

Repeat until no more air comes out. If no air comes out, then you have another issue.

Why are you bleeding it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176479-bleeding-clutch/#findComment-5634784
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

mmm what other issue could it be if just fluids coming out? after i do the above procedure?

Check to see if the pushrod on the slave moves at all when the pedal is depressed. Even if it's a small amount.

Did you put the throwout fork on properly? Bearing on the carrier properly? You remembered to install the clutch?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176479-bleeding-clutch/#findComment-5635079
Share on other sites
Chi100188 Mentor

Chi100188

Posted
Posted

well the push rod does move but really little yeah i put it the way i took it off so it should be correct? and i didn't remove the gear box from engine i took the whole thing out in one go so didn't have to touch the clutch hmmm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176479-bleeding-clutch/#findComment-5635626
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
topher_ Proficient

topher_

Posted
Posted

Heard there was some special thing to do when bleeding the 32 gtr which involves something in the kick panel, can't remember what the guy was talking about and was hoping someone could elaborate or tell me if he's making shit up? Putting my clutch in tonight and just wanna know

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176479-bleeding-clutch/#findComment-5676913
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
SkyHi_33 Mentor

SkyHi_33

Posted
Posted

Thought id continue on in this thread.

Basically, changed clutch, changed to braided line, all the fluid i had bled out in the process.

Now i cant get any of the fluid from the master reservoir to suck in to the system no matter how many and which nipples i play with :P

Been told there's a bypass vacuum line in the kick panel but not sure what im looking at. Help!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176479-bleeding-clutch/#findComment-5778553
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • joshuaho96
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • jayden_l33
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By jayden_l33 · Posted

      It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...