Bleeding Clutch

[ZENNON]

I have referred to the fluid dampener as "funny little box" as this is what my customer called it and this was my reply to him...just cut and paste.

What an idiot!

Ps thanks again for the steps Dan - will be doing this later today

[evers.]

My clutch is not engaging until right at the floor, still drivable but you can feel it should have more to it.

I've bleed the slave cylinder as mentioned above but its still the same?

The Fluid dampener you spoke about, Can that be bleed as the same process of Open, Pedal down, Close and then pedal up?

I was told it was a heavy duty clutch but not sure on what kind exactly, i had a quick sus by moving the rubber from underneath and seen an extreme purple plate.

Is there anything else i should be looking out for?

[The Dan]

It's not always a bleeding issue. It can also be an adjustment issue, master cylinder problem, clutch or hardware problem.

[D.I.Y. Mik]

So i had a good read of this thread and came up with the solution.

After bleeding the master.

On the slave cylinder If the bleed nipple is not at the high point, it wont bleed the air out.

So i took mine off, with a bit of tape to stop the piston coming all the way out.

Then i held it with the bleed nipple at the high point, and opened the bleed, pushed the piston in, closed the bleed, let the piston out.

Repeat until all air is gone, keep an eye on the fluid level up top.

Rinse well and get all the brake fluid off.

Works!

[colourclassic]

Would a well setup vacuum bleed setup do the same, without the need to remove the slave?

[D.I.Y. Mik]

I doubt youd get enough flow through the nipple to suck all the air out.

Anyway its only 2 bolts man.

[The Dan]

I doubt youd get enough flow through the nipple to suck all the air out.

Anyway its only 2 bolts man.

You only need to undo the nipple. The slave cylinder can stay on the gearbox

[D.I.Y. Mik]

On the slave cylinder If the bleed nipple is not at the high point, it wont bleed the air out.

[The Dan]

On the slave cylinder If the bleed nipple is not at the high point, it wont bleed the air out.

The bleed nipple should always be at the high point. If it's not, it's in the wrong hole or you bought the cylinder out of the wrong end of China

[D.I.Y. Mik]

Yeah right.

Thats what you get for buying a car from idiots. Bits put together wrong. So many....... Anyway, another one to fix.

Ill swap them around.

[The Dan]

Yeah right.

Thats what you get for buying a car from idiots. Bits put together wrong. So many....... Anyway, another one to fix.

Ill swap them around.

It's not such a bad thing. Of course bleeding is a pain in the arse but that's about it. Make sure before you swap it around, you check to make sure the banjo fitting has a machined surface to crush the copper washer against. I have seen some cylinders actually made incorrectly. In those cases, you will need to leave it as is.

[BNR34boy]

is this the same on the GTR34? what kinda fluid is to use to bleed the clutch? some people say GTR uses different kind of fluid.

Also, what is the resevor on the right side of the truck?

BTW, i am new at this, please explain.

[enka]

why not reverse bleed slave to master?
- empty reservoir

- push new oil from can from slave to master, then no bubble

i reckn this is better

[The Dan]

why not reverse bleed slave to master?

- empty reservoir

- push new oil from can from slave to master, then no bubble

i reckn this is better

You should try to avoid pushing air into the master cylinder. It is bad practice. There are places where the air can be trapped and you will have difficulty getting it out.

That's why you should always bleed the master cylinder on the bench before fitting a new one.

I'm unsure how you would feed fluid into the slave cylinder anyway. if you're just attaching a hose to the nippple and the hose sits in the bottle of new fluid, that won't always work either. It is quite easy for air to be drawn past the threads of the bleed nippple into the system.

This method may have worked for you though. I'm not saying it won't. I'm just saying it is less likely to work in all situations but moreso it can cause problems not easily diagnosed.

[ausdrift]

Did this today as I replaced my master and slave cylinders. I already have a braided line so I only needed to bleed master and slave. I was fairly anxious about getting this right and went back and forth bled both until I was satisfied. I found it was easier and I had more control bleeding the slave by myself by pushing in the fork as it allowed my to do it slower and therefore see exactly the condition of fluid coming out. I did have an issue with the pedal only half responding in its normal way when I thought I was done, so I just got under and re-bled it all until I actually got all the air out and the clutch responded as normal. Went for a test drive and everything works really well now, so am happy with getting this done.

[ausdrift]

And yes I rose this thread from the dead, but it has useful info if you are going to do this work

[Caddy]

Yeah also doing this today. Clutch pivot snapped and I've ended up with a new clutch etc. When the pivot point snapped, the slave rod bent out to the side and in order to get it back in I needed to drag the boot off of the end of the slave. Need to fill the entire thing with no pedal tone at all. Fun fun. -_-