Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hehe series 1.5 reprazent

I also agree that buying a car with little to no mods is best. Also if you're buying off a member of a forum see what kind of things they are posting, for example if it's stuff like "drifting my 33 at the track this weekend!" freaken avoid it!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176585-buyin-a-r33/#findComment-3230299
Share on other sites

but remember that a modded one 'normally' shows that it's been well looked after and serviced regularly. not always the case if you buy a stocker from someone who didn't realise oil needed topping up :)

But yea, agreed.

heavily used track/drift weapons are probably a good thing to not buy! plus if you buy a stocker you can keep all your stock parts so you can swap everything back when you get your visits to regency :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176585-buyin-a-r33/#findComment-3230419
Share on other sites

Try and find one thats already got a Exhaust, Pod filter, Front mount and possibly a Power FC! If you find one with those mods then you will save a solid 3-4k on doing those basic mods yourself! Spewing i was gonna be looking at off loading mine soon, BUT things have changed and looks like she's staying with me! Was gonna be asking for less than 18k also!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176585-buyin-a-r33/#findComment-3235224
Share on other sites

with 18k you good get something decent from a dealer who dont specialize in imports / skylines etc. IE, redling, synergy. Go to a Dealer with one or 2 lines that they may have bought off an importing company, their prices will start from around 19kish, i got mine down to 15k, so worth a shot!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176585-buyin-a-r33/#findComment-3238340
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

take someone with u who knows skylines or who knows how to tell if the car is genuine ie do the engine and chassis numbers match, accident damage, has it been resprayed, wats it hiding?? has it been put together (welded) with two halfcuts ? just be real careful and ask all the questions I ended up buying mine from sydney cause all I found in adelaide waz dodgey......as they say buyer beware

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176585-buyin-a-r33/#findComment-3258906
Share on other sites

oh yeah I forgot to mention that there are heaps of R33's round at moment particularly in sydney which therefore flows on to adelaide...as there now getting older in japan , heaps more have hit aust than ever b4...so you can bargain harder and shop around if a dealer tells u there "hard to get" thats bs ...theres way more around now than when i bought mine in december

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176585-buyin-a-r33/#findComment-3258926
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...