Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 & R33 Gts-t Parts

BH_SLO32
 Share

Recommended Posts

BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have for sale a variety of R32 and R33 items for which I am keen to part with:

R32 GTS-T

1. Factory exhaust from turbo dump to muffler tip (excluding cat converter) GC $200

2. GTR style rear wing (was on R32 GTS-T). Black. Has minor scatches GC $200

3. RB20DET remapped (Matty Spry tuned) ECU to suit stock injectors with modified garrett turbo on stock manifold and 20psi GC SOLD.

4. RB20DET coilpacks GC $30 ea or 6 for $150

5. RB20DET Air flow meter (mesh has been removed) SOLD

6. RB20DET power transistor GC $40

7. RB20DET crank angle sensor GC SOLD (I do have another if anyone is interested).

8. R32 O/F bottle GC $30

9. 3†dump pipe from turbo to cat (has some scratches) GC SOLD

R33 GTS-T

I have some parts remaining over from an R33 series 1 front cut purchased for an RB25DET conversion. I also have some parts from a series 2 RB25DET. Parts include:

1. R33 Series 1 Power steering rack with tie-rod ends GC $250

2. R33 series 1 (1 off) and series 2 (1 off) auto ECU GC SOLD

3. Brake booster GC $60

4. RB25 series 2 coilpacks (5 off) GC $40 ea or $180 for 5

5. Front discs with minimal wear GC SOLD

6. Series 1 auto dash cluster GC $30

7. Complete A/C system minus AC compressor GC Price subject to part

8. R33 washer bottle with washer motors GC $35

9. Factory series 1 intercooler GC $50

10. Series 1 power steering pump GC $80

11. Factory cross over pipe with factory BOV GC $30

12. RB25 NA block with rotating assembly minus sump, oil pump, oil pickup (from an R32 – head only used in RB30DET build) GC $100

13. Caster rods, sway bar etc GC Price subject to part

Miscellaneous

1. GFB BOV GC SOLD

2. Used Bosch 044 fuel pump GC SOLD

3. New Greddy copy intake manifold for RB25DET GC SOLD

Please note that prices DO NOT include postage.

Thanks for helping me clean out my shed.

post-16836-1184572148_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1184572209_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1184572274_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1184572343_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1184572513_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1184572609_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1184572745_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1184572849_thumb.jpg

Edited by BH_SLO32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176788-r32-r33-gts-t-parts/
Share on other sites
BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update:

R32 dump pipe SOLD

BOV SOLD

Any pics available? And is used or brand new?

Manifold is brand new. Bought in Jan this year and only just took it out of the plastic the other day. I have bought another manifold so it is surplus to my needs.

post-16836-1184662076_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1184662154_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1184662191_thumb.jpg

BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yes, but I don't wish to separate from the overflow bottle. Feel free to make an offer on the O/F bottle.

Cheers

Hey mate

Any chance you have a radiator overflow bottle cap? (the little yellow one)

Cheers

Edited by BH_SLO32
BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
hey bro how much do you want for the auto shifter and

what condition is it in??

From memory it was in good nick. Will take some photos tonight. Asking $25 + postage

No, I don't have the standard vacuum lines sorry.

Cheers

Edited by BH_SLO32
BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry but the shifter is not in the best of condition.

hey bro how much do you want for the auto shifter and

what condition is it in??

also do u have the standard vacuum lines going from actuator to standard

boost solenoid etc?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...