Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A '95 for under $20 would prob. have something desperately wrong with it.

i have seen plenty of 95 r33s for under 20k. anyone that pays more then that is being ripped! i was going to get a 95 model over a year ago but preffered to go for a different r33 with gtr features. you could get nice 95 models back then for around 20k. and they were nice! stock though mind you.

Originally posted by akeenan

i have seen plenty of 95 r33s for under 20k.

I hope you were serious due cause this is exactly what I'm after :)

Would like the car to be as stock as they come which probably matches the lower price that these stock cars go for.

one other thing - when i imported my car it was pretty good value... but then add in $750 for a nice new HD clutch, $200 to change the timing belt (just to be safe), full service with good oils, filters etc... and it can add up quickly.

You will find them for under 20k for sure... especially an auto... but look for cars that have been here for a while... its seems us aussies tend to give them alot more care than the japs. To them its a 5k POS, us its 20K... big diff.

you're looking for an '95 model r33? I think I might be able to help you, our supplier has some sitting in Japan at the moment, but can't get compliance yet. Under 20k will not be a problem, and it will not be completely stock, pm if ur interested, i've got some pics

but look for cars that have been here for a while... its seems us aussies tend to give them alot more care than the japs. To them its a 5k POS, us its 20K... big diff.

i disagree with this! , 5k POS? what are you talking about....(??), i dont think it really matters where you live. most cars coming from japan seem to be in pretty good condition for their age and all. Although I know they may have had some "fixing" along the way.

oh and another point. Id rather buy a car that came from japan then one that has been here previously as well as being in japan as well.

Yeh true akeenan, although the car is not as highly valued by the Japanese (in monetary terms anyway), the Japanese generally seem more willing to burn money on their cars.

I have noticed (a bit of a generalisation) that aus owners always look for the 'cheap n easy' fix!

If you don't believe me just look at the money spent on my

x-Zed. The value of mods on that thing was many times the car cost! Look at how much money is spent on S13's in Japan, for what is a very cheap car over there.

each to their own opinion I guess - but to give you an example - all of the cars we have ever sold (our family) wether they were 2 years old or 10years old, always had complete service history (original books), receipts etc.

soo many cars that come out of Japan dont have any history at all.

other thing I have noticed is that they seem to get rid of their cars when they have problems , wether it be small or large.. for example my soarer drivers seat didnt work... managed to fix it myself.. but I have never come accross a car in Aus worth 15k+ with things not working.. if I did i would be fairly suspicous of how well its been looked after.

Originally posted by nisman

Yeh true akeenan, although the car is not as highly valued by the Japanese (in monetary terms anyway), the Japanese generally seem more willing to burn money on their cars.  

I have noticed (a bit of a generalisation) that aus owners always look for the 'cheap n easy' fix!

If you don't believe me just look at the money spent on my  

x-Zed. The value of mods on that thing was many times the car cost! Look at how much money is spent on S13's in Japan, for what is a very cheap car over there.

how much cash they spend on it doesnt mean much. I know some people who have recently got some skylines from prestige... one blew head gasket and head was ****ed within a week, the otherones bottom end is ****ed.

both these cars have had 15K + spent on mods (BIG HKS turbos) and all the works..

now the chance of the previous owners not realising that these cars had problems must be a pretty big coincidence.. the fact that they r both stuffed with 500km of being sold.

Wow! I have never heard similar stories happening with local cars!

Come on man, really, you make it sound like a car here is immune to such risks. May I suggest you hold this view as you are trying to sell your own car?

If you buy good quality cars from Japan it lessens the risks dramatically, especially if you can see the auction reports. We have imported a few cars, none giving problems. I know this as I regularly keep in touch with buyers. I have also trusted the cars enough to sell to friends. On many occasions cars have not been purchased due inherant problems...

That is not to say a car that has been here is rubbish, its just that the history of it can be questionable...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...