Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm reinstalling my rb20 into my bmw and want to now hook up the heater coz its friggin cold lately.

// apologies for my explanation, hope someone gets it

I need to know, in the skyline does the heater control a solenoid that is shut when the heater is off (and stops the flow of coolant altogether, not returning it to the block), and open when the heater is on? or does a solenoid just divert coolant from the solenoid back to the block when the heater is off (ie coolant continues to run through to the motor even when the heater is off?)

i know in the bmw when the heater is off, the solenoid will just block the flow of coolant to the heater, and there will be no flow back to the motor...

i just dont wannt cook my motor - i'd been running a 'U' shaped heater hose that connected straight from the heater outlet to the inlet on the rb20 block.

thanks for any help. chris.

when the heater is off, a valve at the entry to the heater radiator is closed, stopping the flow of coolant into the heater and back to the block. The coolant only flows back to the engine when the heater is on.

when the heater is off, a valve at the entry to the heater radiator is closed, stopping the flow of coolant into the heater and back to the block. The coolant only flows back to the engine when the heater is on.

sweet as, thanks for that champ :D

Im not sure what its like on a R32 but on R33s coolant runs through the heater all the time. There is a flap on the heater box (not the heater core) which opens to let air flow through to be heated by the heater core. Ie. When you have the temperature set to cold the flap on the heater box is closed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...