Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU'ers,

Wouldn't mind dropping the Db level on my straight thru 3inch zorst as it's a daily commuter and can be a bit tiresome after 2hrs driving everyday for 4years.

Anyone using one of these little numbers?

http://www.nengun.com/apexi/active-tail-silencer

(..and is there a local similar option?)

Looks like it could be the goods for driving around town off boost.

Also, if anyone has one, is the spring open or still closed when your cruising at 110km/h on a freeway?

Thanks,

Birnie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177357-apexi-active-tail-silencer/
Share on other sites

Birnie, those are not a good thing at all.

I have an apexi ecv, and with it closed, it makes it quieter, but you literally have no power at all. You pretty much can't accelerate at any decent rate.

e.g. in first, if you floor it, it takes seconds to get up to a decent rpm. Cutting into the free way would be impossible.

I knwo that the device is different to an ecv, but essentially, with it closed, it'll be restrictive and therefore have no power/response etc.

Does your exhaust come with a buttplug? tried driving with it on?

With min, its not as bad as as with the ecv closed, but it doesn't have much power.

Yeah they're only meant to keep the cops away, they cause huge back pressure. Just put a proper silencer in, they do reduce noise but I wouldn't be revving it out with one in place. Otherwise invest in a decent bodied muffler with with twin tips, they tend to take the drone and headache causing noise away. I personally can't stand noisy exhausts.

Birnie, those are not a good thing at all.

I have an apexi ecv, and with it closed, it makes it quieter, but you literally have no power at all. You pretty much can't accelerate at any decent rate.

e.g. in first, if you floor it, it takes seconds to get up to a decent rpm. Cutting into the free way would be impossible.

I knwo that the device is different to an ecv, but essentially, with it closed, it'll be restrictive and therefore have no power/response etc.

Does your exhaust come with a buttplug? tried driving with it on?

With min, its not as bad as as with the ecv closed, but it doesn't have much power.

I understand what youa are saying but i was hoping that if you floored it, even though the revs aren't up there yet, the AFM reading (therefore the air flow) would be going up and be enough to pop the spring open and wala! straight thru (well almost)

I guess there would be a bit of a delay but if you were under track conditions, i'm sure it would be well over the spring limit the whole time.

And as for not much power when commuting, thats fine cause i drive a bit like a granny most of the time so the lower Db would be a bonus.

Also, i searched a bit and seems i could only find one person on here with one and he didn[t say too much about it but i think it was overall positive.

Might try sending them a PM, if i can find it again.

Had a PM from someone who suggested a twin setup between the Cat and the Canon and then have the ECV valve thingy on just 1 pipe.

Could be an interesting idea.

Anyone else tried that?

Or anyhting else?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...