Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alrighty mates,

I have been up and down the hill looking for the solution to my gremlins, but to no avail. So I have decided to write my story here and see if someone on here can help me.

I had an RB25DE (N/A) in my R32 Skyline, running with Greddy Emanage and an RB20DET ECU, and RB20DET wiring loom.

Recently, I put in an RB25DET (Series 1). And since then, my car has been running on 4 cylinders. I found this out by removing the coils one at a time, to see which ones were faulty. As it turned out, the revs dropped every time except when I removed no. 2 and no. 5, which makes me think that perhaps there is something wrong with the coils at 2 and 5. I tried testing them for power and they have a spark when I turn the key on. I thought it was the injectors, but couldn't figure that one out, since they seem to be all firing. Somebody said that maybe my coil firing order OR the injection order OR both were out. What is it supposed to be and how do I confirm what order I am running?

Now I am using the RB20DET wiring harness, which was working fine with the RB25DE, but ever since the RB25DET was dropped in, the car is on 4 cylinders and not 6. Cylinder 2 and 5 seem to be not doing anything at all (they are not dead cylinders).....There is a LOT of smell of petrol from the exhaust, which makes me think that perhaps the injectors are all firing, BUT the coil firing order is messed up. I am using an RB25DE/DET ignitor (series 1).

I tried doing the continuity test on the injectors and this is what I found: Injector 4 and 6 seem to be connected, and so do injectors 1 and 3. Nos. 2 and 5 are alone on their own. Is it all supposed to be that way? I cannot for the life of me get it to run on 6 cylinders.

What do you guys think could be the problem(s), and how can I resolve them? Mind you, I have removed the Emanage and now will be trying to run the RB25DET with just the RB20DET ECU and stock RB20DET wiring harness. Realizing that the injectors size is different, I will be getting the ECU chipped soon, but first I want to make sure that the motor is running on all 6 cylinders. I have tried to search on the forum for pertinent info but couldnt find details.

ANY help would be greatly appreciated, mates.

Cheers,

Judas

Edited by Judasentinel666
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177496-rb25det-swap-with-rb20det-ecu/
Share on other sites

What happens if you re-locate coils 2 and 5 (say swap 2 & 3 and 5 & 6)?

It sounds like a faulty ignitor - try and borrow a known working one. Other possibility is someone has slipped a pair of S2 coils in there. Do you still have the original coils from your 25DE? Try using them.

What happens if you re-locate coils 2 and 5 (say swap 2 & 3 and 5 & 6)?

It sounds like a faulty ignitor - try and borrow a known working one. Other possibility is someone has slipped a pair of S2 coils in there. Do you still have the original coils from your 25DE? Try using them.

When I swapped coil #2 with #1, nothing changed, in that it was still no. 2 that did not result in revs dropping when I would remove it, and same with no. 5 when swapped with another one. Shows that the coils themselves are not faulty. And they are S1 coils that came off my RB25DE.

I checked the ignitor, and the thing is that all coils have power in them when the ignition is on.

I am beginning to think that there is something wrong with the firing order. All coils have power, all injectors are firing, yet there is a lot of smell of gas and cylinders 2 and 5 do not seem to be combusting (producing power). I read somewhere on here that no. 2 and 5 coils are connected. What if their firing sequence is altered/reversed?

I wish someone could help me with HOW to redo the ignition and injector wiring for an RB25DET to run with RB20DET ECU. I think that if I can do that, things will be alright. Thats where I believe I need the real help.

Judas

The coils have power to them, then the ignitor is switched by the ECU so the spark is fired. And as far as I can tell (from the workshop manual), the ECU pinouts are the same in the 20 and 25 ECUs. (why aren't you using a 25 ECU?)

Silly question - you have compression in 2 & 5?

Try making up a short ignition lead, and use that to see if there is spark at those cylinders. Pull the plug out to confirm that it is wet. If there is no spark(which is very likely)then i would say it is probably the igniter. Is it the same igniter you used before on the rb25de?

The coils have power to them, then the ignitor is switched by the ECU so the spark is fired. And as far as I can tell (from the workshop manual), the ECU pinouts are the same in the 20 and 25 ECUs. (why aren't you using a 25 ECU?)

Silly question - you have compression in 2 & 5?

im pretty sure ecu pinouts arent exactly the same, one major thing is that injector 4 and 6 are different, this would cause the injector to fire on the wrong stroke causing it to run on 4 cylinders, u have to swap them around to use a rb25 ecu aswell as other things

I wish someone could help me with HOW to redo the ignition and injector wiring for an RB25DET to run with RB20DET ECU. I think that if I can do that, things will be alright. Thats where I believe I need the real help.

hope this pic helps, its the differences in 20 and 25 wiring that i mentioned

post-32670-1185057682_thumb.jpg

Edited by drf76
im pretty sure ecu pinouts arent exactly the same, one major thing is that injector 4 and 6 are different, this would cause the injector to fire on the wrong stroke causing it to run on 4 cylinders, u have to swap them around to use a rb25 ecu aswell as other things

hope this pic helps, its the differences in 20 and 25 wiring that i mentioned

Thanks, guys for all your replies. The issue is that the wiring loom from my RB20DET was already modified to work with an RB25DE. And since that motor was chucked out and an RB25DET was put in, something got messed up in the motor. Cylinders 4 and 6 are working just fine. And as regards the compression in 2 and 5, even if the cylinders were low on compression, there would still be SOME power in them, and when one would remove the coil on either one of them, the revs would drop. Right now, even if I disconnected coils #2 and 5 together, the engine continues to run unaffected and the revs dont drop.

And thanks, drf76 for the interesting GIF on the differneces b/w 20 an d 25. I am aware of the differences in the pinouts, but my ECU has already been rewired to run an RB25 (DE, not DET). The issue is not the cylinders 4 & 6. Its 2 and 5. And I need to know if all of my ignition and injection wires are properly sequenced and connected. The circuit diagram does not tell me much except which pinouts feeds what sensor. What I really need is to know HOW to redo these wires (injection and ignition). I want to do it right this time, from scratch. So my query would be:

1. HOW to make an injector loom to be connected to the main wiring loom.

2. Same as above for ignition. I already have the coils and the harnesses with plugs. What I dont know is which pin on thne ignitor goes to what cylinder and how dpo I draw power to the ignitor

3. How can I check if the injectors are ALL firing or not? I tried listening to each one of them by rotating the CAS, and I would hear a tick every half revolution of the CAS shaft. Does it mean that they are all firing or is it possible that the firing order is stuffed?

4. How can I ascertain the firing order for the ignition coils? BTW, how much voltage should each coil have and how does one check that?

For now, this is what I need. I will post my progress when you mates give me suggestions and I will try them all out.

Thanks, mates.

Judas

sorry mate i was aware that you only had problem with cylinders 2 and 5, i just thought ill add that as someone said they have the same pinouts, but i cant understand why swapping just the motor would cause such a problem as you said nothing was changed with the wiring looms between rb25de and rb25det, the only thing i can say is start tracing a wiring diagram from ecu to the ignitor and same for the injectors, like people have said it maybe the ignitor, have you definetly confirmed there is a spark to each cylinder, especially 2&5, if there is have you checked the spark plugs, im not sure what tests u have done so it hard to tell, heres a wiring diagram if it helps and start following the wiring see if everything is connected but i cant see that's a problem as you said it was fine on the 25de.

post-32670-1185066671_thumb.jpg

sorry mate i was aware that you only had problem with cylinders 2 and 5, i just thought ill add that as someone said they have the same pinouts, but i cant understand why swapping just the motor would cause such a problem as you said nothing was changed with the wiring looms between rb25de and rb25det, the only thing i can say is start tracing a wiring diagram from ecu to the ignitor and same for the injectors, like people have said it maybe the ignitor, have you definetly confirmed there is a spark to each cylinder, especially 2&5, if there is have you checked the spark plugs, im not sure what tests u have done so it hard to tell, heres a wiring diagram if it helps and start following the wiring see if everything is connected but i cant see that's a problem as you said it was fine on the 25de.

Hey......

I have already checked and there is spark on all the plugs and the plugs are also fine. I replaced the plugs in 2 & 5 as well, but no change. If there is spark on all coils, and the injectors are firing, and assuming that the cylinders are all ok (I am pretty confident on that, since the CR was around 180+ on all of them), then the only issue could be a bad ignitor OR the wrong firing order. I cannot think of any other reason. The ignitor is also fine (its the RB25 one, with 7 pins on the wiring loom side and 6 on the coil side). Is that how its supposed to be? And assuming again that the ignitor is also fine, its a weird situation.

That's why I need to know how to check the order of things. Thanks for the wiring diagram too :). I have the R33 manual as well as the R32 one. I have tried to compare the two diagrams (20 and 25) and have an idea of the differences, but those differences are already taken care of. The thing that baffles me is that the ECU is showing code 21, which seems to suggest that everything is ok. Now if thats the case, where could be the problem? Hence my desire to know the firing order and wiring issues.

Judas

Edited by Judasentinel666
Hey......

I have already checked and there is spark on all the plugs and the plugs are also fine. I replaced the plugs in 2 & 5 as well, but no change. If there is spark on all coils, and the injectors are firing, and assuming that the cylinders are all ok (I am pretty confident on that, since the CR was around 180+ on all of them), then the only issue could be a bad ignitor OR the wrong firing order. I cannot think of any other reason. The ignitor is also fine (its the RB25 one, with 7 pins on the wiring loom side and 6 on the coil side). Is that how its supposed to be? And assuming again that the ignitor is also fine, its a weird situation.

That's why I need to know how to check the order of things. Thanks for the wiring diagram too :). I have the R33 manual as well as the R32 one. I have tried to compare the two diagrams (20 and 25) and have an idea of the differences, but those differences are already taken care of. The thing that baffles me is that the ECU is showing code 21, which seems to suggest that everything is ok. Now if thats the case, where could be the problem? Hence my desire to know the firing order and wiring issues.

Judas

hey, im pretty sure that code 21 is ignition ciruit, code 55 is all ok, so it looks like its the igntion side not the injectors

  • 2 years later...

I have the same problem but with cyl 5,6. Was working flawlessly until I decided to put battery back to its factory place. Can't make it run properly since. Tried afms, coils, igniter packs and ecus. All wiring is continus. I'm puzzled.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...