Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my car tuned on tuesday, very happy with the results :)

Mods are:

Front mount

pod etc etc...

Wired my a afc neo myself, Got Anthony at TURBOTECHNICS to tune it :)

Very helpful bloke and friendly to deal with!

Made 215rwkw on 8psi :D These neo afc are worth there weight in gold 40 horses at the wheels straight away :D

Is this a good result?

What mods next?

Edited by brizzi
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177505-so-what-should-i-do-next/
Share on other sites

are u sure? sounds very high for 8psi?

what engine? got a dyno printout

either way it sounds good, the main thing is how does it drive, compared to previously thats the main thing

if it flies, then all good

Thats an awesome result man, on just 8psi.

What do you use the car for? Like do you use it on a track or anything or just as daily/weekend driver? I gues it depends what you use the car for and what you want it to do, thats probably the best way to work out what you need/want to get next.,

How about some suspension and get it handling good, so you can make some good use of that 215kw! :D always a good modification!

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
What mods next?

i don't understand.

your car is what you want, so what do you want out of it?

more power? better handling? better fuel consumption? traction? drifing work? ICE? autosalon styling?

don't just do something cause someone tells u.. do it cause its what YOU want.........

post-27527-1185003783_thumb.jpgDyno sheet;

Wow - dyno's aren't hard to cheat did he have a full weather station to enter proper baro, humidity and inlet temps? Did he strap it to the dyno - what gear did he run it in ect etc - 211rwkw on 8Psi = bullshit. f**k me forums are full of shite just read the rb30/26 or 26 hydrid pages spoolup hit it on the head the amount of horse power some people are caliming is absolute crap. All this claimed power should be compaired on the same dyno the same day just to put the bullshitters to bed - the problem is they never seem to appear!!! How funny!!

Edited by rob82

Man, the B######T you are goin on about is un called for :D

Just because a few people have the tendancy to bullshit about supposed dyno results

doe's not mean you need to categorise the honest people on this forum.

well not that its reveal its a 25t neo that changes things a bit

the figure is probably normal ish and seems ok

i guess most people thought it was the stock rb20

i wonder what diff gears you have

what rpm are you at when doing 100km in 5th

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...