Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

go to the rear of the car and look under where the rear axel is. if there is a hicas lock bar in place, then thats the reason the light is continuously on. if there is no lock bar in place, then as said above, you either have low fluid or something isnt right..

if you want to drift, then get a hicas lock bar(thats if you dont already have it).. but if your going to use your car for other purposes, just leave it... it will only ever become a pain in the ass when your driving along at 110 and hicas turns on and it has a speed bump.. if anything, hicas can be a godsend if you want to take corners fast..

Edited by 180sxdrifterj
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177506-hicas/#findComment-3241844
Share on other sites

ive been driving along at 110 one day, and hicas turned on(was travelling along the M1).. all of a sudden, had a *bump* where it felt like the left rear wheel tried to turn on a straight..

in other words, yes...

ive driven along another straight at 50 one time, and the rear wheels started turning :D stupid hicas... old technology... henceforth while a lot of skylines owners get Hicas lock bars!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177506-hicas/#findComment-3241879
Share on other sites

you can pick up hicas lock bars for 30-120 bucks...

i purchased mine from someone on here who makes them up with decent steel.. cost me 40 bucks if that...

installation is a sinch, yet i havent done mine as i dont have a jack and stilts :D

i would have no idea what hicas stands for, thats about it that i DONT know about hicas lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177506-hicas/#findComment-3241939
Share on other sites

HICAS (High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension)

Earlier HICAS versions used hydraulics to steer the rear wheels. The hydraulic system was powered by the power steering pump and used speed sensors to determine how much and which direction to steer the rear wheels. Later versions, called Super HICAS, moved to an electric actuator for the rear steering rack, making the system much lighter. The Super HICAS system also used its own computer to control the system instead of speed sensors. HICAS and Super HICAS rear wheel steering is limited to about 1 degree in either direction.

I just like to know why ppl here are locking them and their benefits when they do.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177506-hicas/#findComment-3243052
Share on other sites

HICAS (High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension) is Nissan's rear wheel steering system found on cars most of their cars. Unlike other four wheel steering systems, HICAS and Super HICAS is fitted to improve handling rather than as a parking aid.

Earlier HICAS versions used hydraulics to steer the rear wheels. The hydraulic system was powered by the power steering pump and used speed sensors to determine how much and which direction to steer the rear wheels. Later versions, called Super HICAS, moved to an electric actuator for the rear steering rack, making the system much lighter. The Super HICAS system also used its own computer to control the system instead of speed sensors. HICAS and Super HICAS rear wheel steering is limited to about 1 degree in either direction.

Click here for more info:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HICAS

In short, after a certain speed you're doing - the HICAS will / should kick in to provide you with better handling and will cause the rear wheels to also turn as well on corners etc.

With my car, when I first start my engine, the HICAS light, brake lights, battery light etc flashes at the start - this is normal, but if HICAS stays on for more than a couple seconds - this means it's engaging incorrectly and needs to be fixed. I would get it fixed first before buying a vehicle with this always activated.

Good luck,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177506-hicas/#findComment-3243543
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
i have r33 4doors.since i change my steering wheel the hicas light on when i drive 10km...whats that mean n how to fix it? please help

this means the boss kit you used for the aftermarket steering wheel isn't HICAS compatible. there are little angle sensors in the steering wheel assembly and some boss kits dont work with them. best to get a boss kit the states it is HICAS compatible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177506-hicas/#findComment-3643657
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...