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Guest skip

I did a few 0-100 runs today in my R33 GTSt. I used a Race Technology AP22 performance meter. I'm a bit surprised at at the results - I expected at least mid 6 seconds, but I didn't even get below 7s.

The car:

1995 R33 GTSt

3" turbo back exhaust, but with a 2.5" rear section and a quiet oval type muffler. (I still have the 3" rear section and bullet style muffler but it's too noisy for me to use day to day).

Tyres: 235/45 front, @34psi 255/40 rear @36psi.

K&N panel filter

Result 1 (revved 1st to ~6K, revved 2nd all the way out into the rev limiter. Road smooth, temp ~20C)

Start Speed 0.0kph

kph s g km kW

10.0 0.70 0.49 0.000 13

20.0 1.43 0.36 0.003 20

30.0 2.03 0.49 0.008 41

40.0 2.58 0.51 0.013 58

50.0 3.13 0.50 0.020 72

60.0 4.25 0.35 0.037 62

70.0 5.06 0.37 0.051 76

80.0 5.81 0.36 0.067 88

90.0 6.63 0.33 0.087 92

100.0 8.85 0.11 0.147 46

Result 2: (1st and 2nd to ~6K, road rough, temp ~20, bit of wheel spin)

Start Speed 0.0kph

kph s g km kW

10.0 0.60 0.51 0.000 14

20.0 1.11 0.55 0.002 30

30.0 1.61 0.55 0.006 46

40.0 2.12 0.55 0.011 62

50.0 2.95 0.38 0.022 55

60.0 3.67 0.36 0.033 64

70.0 4.42 0.39 0.046 81

80.0 5.13 0.39 0.061 93

90.0 6.33 0.22 0.090 67

100.0 7.40 0.28 0.118 92

Result 3: (1st to ~5K, 2nd to ~4K)

Start Speed 0.0kph

kph s g km kW

10.0 0.66 0.51 0.000 14

20.0 1.32 0.42 0.003 23

30.0 1.86 0.54 0.007 45

40.0 2.40 0.53 0.012 60

50.0 3.21 0.15 0.023 24

60.0 3.93 0.36 0.034 64

70.0 4.68 0.38 0.047 79

80.0 5.39 0.38 0.062 93

90.0 6.80 0.23 0.095 68

100.0 7.94 0.24 0.126 82

The AP22 was set to "sporty" suspension, and a trigger value of 0.1G.

I read somewhere on Autospeed I think it was that they got 6.2s "without even trying". Well I'm probably lacking a lot of skill, especially in the launches, but I was hoping for a bit better than this. Is my concern warranted, or is it actually very difficult to get good 0-100 times without appreciable skill? I'm booked in for a boost upgrade next week, but now I'm wondering whether I should get the car examined really thoroughly first.

It's been well over a year since I had it dynoed, but at the time it was making 147rkw. (with the 3" rear section and bullet exhaust though).

Any advice much appreciated.

Greg.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17757-r33-gtst-slow-0-100-times/
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Guest skip

RE: "bad days", this was the first time in my life that I've attempted a timed 0-100 run. :P

RE: AP22 settings, yes, I have a pretty good understanding of the settings, and I think the settings are probably correct.

I have not yet entered the vehicle weight and rolling resistance etc, so ignore the kW column of the results.

I didn't try a stop watch. (rather tricky to do without a passenger - almost needs to be voice activated!)

I had a pretty full fuel tank so I guess that will effect the results a bit.

Greg.

Guest skip

Ok, I'll try with less fuel. (I already had zero passengers, and I'm not overweight :P

son of rajab: were you using an accelerometer (like my AP22), or were you measuring it properly at a track? I'm even more surprised that you couldn't get below 7s - I would have thought it would be easier to launch a 4WD. Do we really have to add a whole *second* to the published 0-100 times to come up with a figure that can be expected in the real workd? Yikes.

Greg.

Ive got a Apexi Speed meter. Auto Dif ratio 4.3:1 with 5 speed manual.

235/45/18 rears

I can get Constant high 4's (but i have to slam second gear and my max speed in second is about 102kph)

But ive been launching boosted cars for years.. After a while you can get good launch after launch....

We have lots of traffic lights in 80 zones around here.. So everytime i stop at one I do a 0-100 launch.. I even do them when turning right onto another road (have to go slow then slam it) and i usually get mid 6's then doing it like that.

If i dont slam second i get 5.5's all day long just taking off quickly and changing gears slowly

Ive raced a few cars around here.. and I launch them off the mark every time....

Best way to launch is to get the revs up.. let the clutch half out and slip your way untill youve got enough speed to get good traction to let go of the clutch and floor it. Then when changing to second you push the clutch in very quick and just slam it into second and floor it straight up :P (DONT flat change you let go of accelerator too :rofl:

The skyline is easier to launch then my datsun 180b sss was with a 300rwhp fj20t...

Guilt-Toy,

Thanks for the info - very impressive if you haven't got any other mods!! :P

I don't quite understand what you mean regarding changing into 2nd. Do you mean not to double-clutch? I never double-clutch.

The way you are changing into 2nd is the way I always change gears, although I obviously don't always do it super quickly. I.e, I push clutch in, start to shift, while releasing accelerator. (all simultaneously). Then release clutch while re-applying accelerator, again simultaneously.

Can you elaborate? (I've probably misunderstood something)

I haven't tried power shifting yet and I'd probably rather not. ;)

I don't think revving my 2nd out to 100kph works for me - loses too much torque right at the upper end. I assume that my 0-60mph (=96kph) results would be significantly better, because then I really could leave it in 2nd.

Greg.

If you can get second gear to 100kays you will find that even though the torque drops off it will be actually quicker to 100kays.

Changing gears waste quite a bit of time.

lol.. Even my first car (TE 250 4Speed Cortina) used to run 0-100kays in mid 7's every time launch after launch. Even with the cortina the trick was to wind second out to 100kays.

Wind second out you will be rather suprised. :P

Also I tend to launch with a high rpm. I used to launch with 4000rpm then 4500rpm now I launch with 5000rpm and use the clutch to regulate wheel spin.. Due to the Nature of the turbo the clutch slipping with high rpms works well ;)

My old V8 5ltr Manual was extremly hard to launch compared to the Skyline. It would either wheel spin or Bog down then you would have to wait until 3000rpm for it to get going.

Originally posted by skip

Guilt-Toy,

Thanks for the info - very impressive if you haven't got any other mods!! :)

I don't quite understand what you mean regarding changing into 2nd. Do you mean not to double-clutch? I never double-clutch.

The way you are changing into 2nd is the way I always change gears, although I obviously don't always do it super quickly. I.e, I push clutch in, start to shift, while releasing accelerator.  (all simultaneously). Then release clutch while re-applying accelerator, again simultaneously.

Can you elaborate? (I've probably misunderstood something)

I haven't tried power shifting yet and I'd probably rather not. :D

I don't think revving my 2nd out to 100kph works for me - loses too much torque right at the upper end. I assume that  my 0-60mph (=96kph) results would be significantly better, because then I really could leave it  in 2nd.

Greg.

One thing i forgot to mention was that I upgraded my turbo (well some people think its a downgrade)

I put a VL t3 turbo with race bearings with a t4 front wheel and the front housing machined to suit. So once im on boost it does not drop off up to the rev limiter. SO i dont notice a drop off in power at 7000rpm in second gear at all.... It pulls all the way... (i am only using about 9 - 10 psi. But i guess its flowing alot more air then a standard r33 turbo ?!?

When changing ti second when doing my quarter / 0-100 runs i use stuff all time.. its like a full on slam shift on the gas straight up. Takes some practice...

If i change gears slowly i get 5.5 runs all the time... extra time changing gears + extra time spooling boost up once it escapes out the BOV

i did a 0-100 in 4.89 secs :)

gotta luv the AWD...

but yeah check settings on the ap22... you might be doing a 0-100m time instead of 0-100km's... i made the boo boo and was doing 0-100 in like 6.1secs... i thought its weird i couldnt break 6 secs.... finally saw i was doing 0-100 meters not km's

I'm definitely using the 0-100kph mode of the AP22 - the data dumps I put in my first post here are pretty much straight from the AP22. (even the column headings were produced by the AP22 - I didn't manually type those in). Even in my best run, I got to 100m before I reached 100kph. :(

I went ahead and got the boost upgrade - the mechanic said the car felt fine, but they didn't dyno it. (I had told him about the slow 0-100 times). I now have a simple electronic boost controller, and my max boost is 11.5psi. The boost staging with revs (which the factory boost controller does) is gone. (and I won't miss that :)

Guilt-Toy - it sounds to me like you *are* in fact power shifting - I thought you said initially that you were still lifting off the accelerator, but now it seems that you leave your foot on the whole time, which is a power shift, yes?

Thanks again,

Greg.

One thing i forgot to mention was that I upgraded my turbo (well some people think its a downgrade)  

I put a VL t3 turbo with race bearings with a t4 front wheel and the front housing machined to suit.

Well there you go, I think you answered your own question in a way. This turbo combination is probably slightly laggier in spooling up, which will slow you down slightly from 0-100 but it will give you higher top-end.

With the Boost controller change thats a reasonable change as well.. with the EBC it should drop boost less between each change, resulting in better 0-100 times.

I am not positive about mine (guess i should measure it - but i have no good streets around my area)....but it feels around the 4-5 sec mark. I know on high boost (12psi) mine actually feels a bit slower than on low boost (10psi) getting up to the 100 because of the increased lag. Basically @ 10psi it "feels" at least to have better torque throughout.

I'll admit I can't launch for shit at the strip but on the street its a different story :(

Predator:

Setting boost higher predator doesn't increase lag. Its gives the feeling of more lag as it takes a little longer to hit the new peak boost setting. But you are still making more power providing it isn't pinging like hell and the ecu isn't pulling timing etc out causing power curve dips.

The EBC won't drop boost less between gears, isn't that the job of the BOV to keep the turbo spinning, however it will stop any boost drop at higher rpms that is occuring if it is occuring.

Generally an EBC will feel softer compared to a Bleed valve and feel like it also needs more throttle to make boost. Hence the bleeder tends to bring up boost harder due to a slight spike then taper off.

The EBC brings boost up so that it hits smack on the set boost level and nothing more causing the initial pin the the seat as you hit the gear to be less compared to the bleeder.

When I had the bleeder fitted my boost guage wasn't picking up the spike as it couldn't react quick enough. It was only until I fitted the Blitz EBC-iD that shows boost graphs and has a peek hold function did i notice this. I then connected up the Solanoid and removed the Bleeder to be dissapointed when boost first hit there was a noticable difference up top as the RB20DET turbo dropps boost in the higher rev range with a bleeder.

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