Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20det

Black Widow

By Black Widow,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Black Widow Veteran

Black Widow

Posted
Posted

Hey peeps i've got an r32 gtst with an rb20det. When i go to put my foot on it, it starts to spool but it also sounds like its leaking boost from somewhere as there's like a "pshhhhhh" noise and it seems like there's a little lack of power. Has anyone else experienced this or know what it could be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177709-rb20det/
Share on other sites
Black Widow Veteran

Black Widow

Posted
  • Author
Posted
what boost is displayed on your boost gauge?

do you know what a turbo sounds like?

11psi. which is what its set to. yeah this is a really loud shhhhh noise tho..doesn't sound like a spool unless i'm on crack and have got it completely mistaken..but it feels like i lose power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177709-rb20det/#findComment-3244105
Share on other sites
TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

If you can see 11psi, then "if" there is a leak, it is after the turbo.

so being an RB, most probably a gasket leak at the turbo manifold.

My guess from this side of the monitor is that you have a bolt missing from the turbo to the manifold.

you might be able to just tighten replace and tighten it and it will go for a while longer.

"IF" there is a manifold leak, and you leave it, it will get worse as the whole in the gasket gets bigger.

eventually, it will start to sound like a lawn mower when idling.

"OR" you are most likely on crack and it's just the sound of an RB20 with exposed pod filter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177709-rb20det/#findComment-3246522
Share on other sites
Black Widow Veteran

Black Widow

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you can see 11psi, then "if" there is a leak, it is after the turbo.

so being an RB, most probably a gasket leak at the turbo manifold.

My guess from this side of the monitor is that you have a bolt missing from the turbo to the manifold.

you might be able to just tighten replace and tighten it and it will go for a while longer.

"IF" there is a manifold leak, and you leave it, it will get worse as the whole in the gasket gets bigger.

eventually, it will start to sound like a lawn mower when idling.

"OR" you are most likely on crack and it's just the sound of an RB20 with exposed pod filter.

ok cool. i'll have a look. I think everyone may be right i think it is probably only the pod induction. I was just wanting to make sure because i'm selling it..i'm not the most technical minded person and sometimes i can be a bit thick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177709-rb20det/#findComment-3246829
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...