Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not to much as it drops a lot in the first 12 months and after the 2 to 3 year mark the drop slows down, also now the dollar is so strong people are buying more cars then they would normally and more people bidding on them keeps the price strong.

I want to replace mine with a newer model and the price in Japan is the same as to what I spent 12 months ago, it is more the dollar is stronger which makes it cheaper in Japan to buy nothing more.

It will vary from model to model and even day to day over their it amazes me some times as I look at sale prices every day which dictates a lot.

if you mean a drop in the price of V35's in australia, then no

i think the release of the V37 doesn't affect us for 2 reasons:

1) the cars are new and thus expensive - people that are going to spend that much rarely import cars but rather buy locally so that they get a warranty etc

2) people have to get SEVS compliance for the car before it can be rought it - if we look back to what that involves, they have to buy a car and wreck it for testing to prove its compliance. not many companies could afford to do that just yet

in short, the V35 won't be dropping for a few years until the V37 starts to filter through to our shores, and this is a while away in my opinion...

there's always going to be a base model going around with no features (eg no premium pack), high kms, etc..

Klm's flicked and had a good hit also helps to get a cheap one,

Dealers are trying to buy as low a klm as they can I am talking 160 single klm and a grade 5 A, I know on one dealer with 9 in stock with less then 15,000 klm's, most buyers these days on the V35 understand why a good car cost's that little extra and they understand why others are cheaper.

you can't bring in cars that have been in an accident under the SEVS system...

Yes but dealers in Japan can offer them for sale to personal importers and dodgy dealers....... it is when they turn up that the problems start and the dealer in Japan has forgotten about you already as he has his money.

coz i am thinking ... when G37 comes out in Jap, V35 in Japan would have a further price drop... hence affect the price in Aus... :P

i am sourcing one now ... but haven't decided if i should go buy locally or importing one myself.... i can see savings of around 4K if importing myself...

coz i am thinking ... when G37 comes out in Jap, V35 in Japan would have a further price drop... hence affect the price in Aus... :laugh:

i am sourcing one now ... but haven't decided if i should go buy locally or importing one myself.... i can see savings of around 4K if importing myself...

For $4k I wouldn't take the risk. I bought off a local dealer after test driving the car and checking it out properly. I picked it up the next day. Why would you want to send your money up front for a car you cant drive or inspect and wait for 12 to 16 weeks until it finally turns up and maybe gets licensed? It would have to be a much bigger difference than $4K for me to personally import one. But everyone to their own.

For $4k I wouldn't take the risk. I bought off a local dealer after test driving the car and checking it out properly. I picked it up the next day. Why would you want to send your money up front for a car you cant drive or inspect and wait for 12 to 16 weeks until it finally turns up and maybe gets licensed? It would have to be a much bigger difference than $4K for me to personally import one. But everyone to their own.

well... after further looking at the prices and negotiating with local sellers... they are pretty firm on their prices and the saving is now 6K..... would save around 7 to 8K if buying from dealer...

i got 9k off the advertised price when i got mine (from a dealer), so they are in no way firm on prices if you go in actually looking to buy.

of course, if you just go to enquire then they won't give at all because there's no point unless they know you are serious

i got 9k off the advertised price when i got mine (from a dealer), so they are in no way firm on prices if you go in actually looking to buy.

of course, if you just go to enquire then they won't give at all because there's no point unless they know you are serious

$9K .... that's alot.... !!

the thing is .... most of the reasonably priced ones are from private sellers.... ...

dealer ones all prices around 40K ... more or less depends on whether if it's the premium or not...

after reviewing the recent aution price of the 350GT... it's quite possible to bring one in around $28k...

mmm... i only make around 3K a month... so to save up 4K it's gonna take me around 4 month...

i hate financial constrains.... :pirate:

Due to no one passing ADR 79 with the V35 to date nothing newer then 12/2005 can come in and lets believe what gets spammed out because if they were that cheap dealers would buy off him.
Edited by Shaun

Was in the market recently for a coupe premium model and cant believe the price range. For a 03 model prices go from low thirtys and up to 50-60k. I cant see a justification for the ones in the higher price range considering that they can be picked up for similiar quality in high 30's and low 40's.

Was in the market recently for a coupe premium model and cant believe the price range. For a 03 model prices go from low thirtys and up to 50-60k. I cant see a justification for the ones in the higher price range considering that they can be picked up for similiar quality in high 30's and low 40's.

i was in the market for a while...

low 30s ones all have some sort of accident history......

getting one imported myself now~

I'm thinking of selling my coupe end of this year early next.

(Need 4 door and lease for business)

I've owned it for 2 years It had done 6,000kms (now 40,000)

Grade 5A

Pretty much same condition as when I got it

20" wheels

Whiteline swaybars

Premium half leather

Manual 6 speed

HKS Supercharger kit

What would be a fair price?

Hardest part is finding a replacement now I've been spoilt.

It's just the wife and I now the kids have their own cars or are moving out

post-98-1186028661_thumb.jpg

post-98-1186028718_thumb.jpg

post-98-1186028827_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...