Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HEY GUYS GOT A T70 TURBO WITH SARD WASTEGATE AND SCREAMER PIPEMADE 300KW @1.2bar AND 11 SEC PASS ON A SR20 WITH A FEW MODS WOULD LIKE TO SWAP FOR A SMALLER TURBO SETUP THROW ME UR OFFERS

LOOKING AT 1400

Front A/R .70 Rear A/R .68

T4 Flange

WOULD BE GOOD FOR A RB MOTOR

IMGP0399.jpg

Edited by 4URMUM
what brand turbo?

will you seperate the wastegate....what size is it?

how is the w/g mounted?...pics

master power turbo wastegate is 60 ml wont seperate

wastegate is got a pipe welded to the exhaust housing so the boost is more accutate

Image045.jpg

Image046-1.jpg

Image049.jpg

Image047.jpg

Image044.jpg

lol this has been on my car man and i have had no probz wat so ever with it just coz u cant afford it and u want it for 600 dont mean u can fu** the post keep ur comments to ur self and dont waste ppls time

i would love to see a graph i reckon the boost curve would be awsome i seen one setup like that and it had a great boost curve

with a lil die gringing it would come up sweet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...