Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The frustration just keeps on growing. One minute we feel like we're making progress, the next... ugh.

One day I hope finally to drive my car.

In the meantime, some more pics to while away the boredom...

More detail of the sat nav and DVD system.

post-38769-1185269170_thumb.jpg

post-38769-1185269214_thumb.jpg

post-38769-1185269258_thumb.jpg

post-38769-1185269276_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177914-autech-axis-while-were-waiting/
Share on other sites

ring me on friday :thumbsup:

post the rest of the set up as well. most have yet to see what I did.

Crikey - you're quick off the mark!

Which bits should I post? It's a pity I can't demonstrate the cheesy american voice doing the "valet start - stand clear" whatever that means!!!

I thought that I'd shot those pics at 640X480 res, but obviously not - too big - will process and re-post some more tomorrow.

Speak Friday...

hahahahahah - that's a good one!

Shall I bring it on the back of a tow truck? :laughing-smiley-014:

Jeez... that must be so freakin frustrating to have paid the $$ for it and not getting to reap the rewards. I think I would go nuts. :laugh:

Jeez... that must be so freakin frustrating to have paid the $$ for it and not getting to reap the rewards. I think I would go nuts. :(

Actually I HAVE gone nuts. But I'm taking the pills the doc gave me, and you know what, they really Do work!

I stuck a bit more fuel in it today and ran it around the corner, just to blow out a few cobwebs, all on closed roads of course in strictly controlled conditions :) .

This is the wickedest car I've ever owned, and I really, really, really can't wait to drive it on the road.

Its definatley the one to go! time to visit the banko i beleive

does anyone know when the later models come onto compliance?

and a questions about cruise control? do any come with it?

There is another thread on this somewhere on here but to bring you up to date thus far. My 2004 AR-X 4 is currently in Melbourne undergoing testing with no sign of it making it as yet so as Matt says "the waiting continues". Yes it is very frustrating considering the import broker (in my case) and the compliance shop in Matt's case both said that YES compliance was available for this model. All very frustrating indeed.

The AR-X has cruise control but haven't seen it in any of the others as yet.

Cheers

Muz

Its definatley the one to go! time to visit the banko i beleive

does anyone know when the later models come onto compliance?

and a questions about cruise control? do any come with it?

The car in your attached image appears to have 19 or even 20" wheels, which frankly I think it needs. My 18s get a bit lost in the wheel arches, but I bet the ride is lumpy as hell with bigger mags. You can't have it all I guess. Also the car seems to have a dual sunroof, which is nice, but you might want to think about headroom if you're taller than 6'.

If you check the Nissan specs you'll see that cruise control was not offered as an option (except on the AR-X) which seems an odd omission on a car that is fitted with plenty of gizmos. No matter - it's a relatively easy retro fit for less than a grand.

My guess is that you'll be paying somewhere around 2 million yen + FOB for a really good 2003 Axis or AR-X with leather and all the fruit. My car is in quite unbelievable condition, and looks like it's never been driven, let alone done 47,000km. The interior is flawless, and exterior virtually so. Even the underbody is immcaulate. Depending on whether you buy through a local agent, or DIY through someone like my mate David Zozuk in Kobe, you'll wind up paying a little over $30k on the road. The dollar is at an 18 year high against the yen (106) and has put on 5% since I bought my car. So there's never been a better time to buy. Let me know if you need help or advice, but remember anything with a build date later than 11/03 can not be currently complied.

Yeah i will wait for the compliance i beleive. i really like the look of the 2004 and above versions of the axis. which i watched two today go for around 1.5mil grade 4 with about 50000km on them

Angus, I wouldn't wait for compliance, just a buy an 03 build date car. I don't think there are any changes to the cars specs in 04.

I would also be buying at least Grade 4.5. You want to be careful here as the auction gradings are very much a matter of opinion even within the same auction house. I strongly recommend you use someone like David Zozuk at Kobecars, who bids every week at the HAA auction, the biggest in Japan. He will actually inspect any vehicle you may be interested in and confirm the engineer's report. You can email him at [email protected]. Tell him I sent you!

You also need to look VERY closely at the auction sheet to make sure that the Axis you are looking at has ALL the options you want - most don't have leather for example. There are also a number of engine options, and unless you can read Japanese these won't be obvious. If you want the VQ25DET then you'll have to make sure the car you're bidding on has that option. There is also the Axis S model, which has a slightly different body kit, and goes for a bit less. Some are also 2WD not 4WD.

To give you an idea of what I'm talking about, I'm attaching the actual auction sheet for my car, which was sold for 1.84 million on the button. When you add 5% consumption tax, and 100,000 Y FOB fees, the total comes out at 2.032 million yen. So look out for those additional costs. As you can see from the sheet, every option was ticked except sunroof, which I didn't want.

As you can see the car was rated as 4 B/B - but both David and his Japanese associate say really it should have been an easy 5. The car is bloody flawless! I have seen many, many cars come fresh off the boat from Japan, and they always look a terrible mess. This one looked like it had come fresh from the production line. So, again, be very very careful with engineer's reports.

2004_Stagea_AXIS.pdf

Edited by autech_axis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...