Jump to content
SAU Community

Autech Axis - While We're Waiting...

autech_axis
 Share

Recommended Posts

autech_axis Enthusiast

autech_axis

Posted
Posted

The frustration just keeps on growing. One minute we feel like we're making progress, the next... ugh.

One day I hope finally to drive my car.

In the meantime, some more pics to while away the boredom...

More detail of the sat nav and DVD system.

post-38769-1185269170_thumb.jpg

post-38769-1185269214_thumb.jpg

post-38769-1185269258_thumb.jpg

post-38769-1185269276_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177914-autech-axis-while-were-waiting/
Share on other sites
autech_axis Enthusiast

autech_axis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ring me on friday :thumbsup:

post the rest of the set up as well. most have yet to see what I did.

Crikey - you're quick off the mark!

Which bits should I post? It's a pity I can't demonstrate the cheesy american voice doing the "valet start - stand clear" whatever that means!!!

I thought that I'd shot those pics at 640X480 res, but obviously not - too big - will process and re-post some more tomorrow.

Speak Friday...

webng Experienced

webng

Posted
Posted
hahahahahah - that's a good one!

Shall I bring it on the back of a tow truck? :laughing-smiley-014:

Jeez... that must be so freakin frustrating to have paid the $$ for it and not getting to reap the rewards. I think I would go nuts. :laugh:

autech_axis Enthusiast

autech_axis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Jeez... that must be so freakin frustrating to have paid the $$ for it and not getting to reap the rewards. I think I would go nuts. :(

Actually I HAVE gone nuts. But I'm taking the pills the doc gave me, and you know what, they really Do work!

I stuck a bit more fuel in it today and ran it around the corner, just to blow out a few cobwebs, all on closed roads of course in strictly controlled conditions :) .

This is the wickedest car I've ever owned, and I really, really, really can't wait to drive it on the road.

Muz Experienced

Muz

Posted
Posted
Its definatley the one to go! time to visit the banko i beleive

does anyone know when the later models come onto compliance?

and a questions about cruise control? do any come with it?

There is another thread on this somewhere on here but to bring you up to date thus far. My 2004 AR-X 4 is currently in Melbourne undergoing testing with no sign of it making it as yet so as Matt says "the waiting continues". Yes it is very frustrating considering the import broker (in my case) and the compliance shop in Matt's case both said that YES compliance was available for this model. All very frustrating indeed.

The AR-X has cruise control but haven't seen it in any of the others as yet.

Cheers

Muz

autech_axis Enthusiast

autech_axis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Its definatley the one to go! time to visit the banko i beleive

does anyone know when the later models come onto compliance?

and a questions about cruise control? do any come with it?

The car in your attached image appears to have 19 or even 20" wheels, which frankly I think it needs. My 18s get a bit lost in the wheel arches, but I bet the ride is lumpy as hell with bigger mags. You can't have it all I guess. Also the car seems to have a dual sunroof, which is nice, but you might want to think about headroom if you're taller than 6'.

If you check the Nissan specs you'll see that cruise control was not offered as an option (except on the AR-X) which seems an odd omission on a car that is fitted with plenty of gizmos. No matter - it's a relatively easy retro fit for less than a grand.

My guess is that you'll be paying somewhere around 2 million yen + FOB for a really good 2003 Axis or AR-X with leather and all the fruit. My car is in quite unbelievable condition, and looks like it's never been driven, let alone done 47,000km. The interior is flawless, and exterior virtually so. Even the underbody is immcaulate. Depending on whether you buy through a local agent, or DIY through someone like my mate David Zozuk in Kobe, you'll wind up paying a little over $30k on the road. The dollar is at an 18 year high against the yen (106) and has put on 5% since I bought my car. So there's never been a better time to buy. Let me know if you need help or advice, but remember anything with a build date later than 11/03 can not be currently complied.

autech_axis Enthusiast

autech_axis

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Yeah i will wait for the compliance i beleive. i really like the look of the 2004 and above versions of the axis. which i watched two today go for around 1.5mil grade 4 with about 50000km on them

Angus, I wouldn't wait for compliance, just a buy an 03 build date car. I don't think there are any changes to the cars specs in 04.

I would also be buying at least Grade 4.5. You want to be careful here as the auction gradings are very much a matter of opinion even within the same auction house. I strongly recommend you use someone like David Zozuk at Kobecars, who bids every week at the HAA auction, the biggest in Japan. He will actually inspect any vehicle you may be interested in and confirm the engineer's report. You can email him at [email protected]. Tell him I sent you!

You also need to look VERY closely at the auction sheet to make sure that the Axis you are looking at has ALL the options you want - most don't have leather for example. There are also a number of engine options, and unless you can read Japanese these won't be obvious. If you want the VQ25DET then you'll have to make sure the car you're bidding on has that option. There is also the Axis S model, which has a slightly different body kit, and goes for a bit less. Some are also 2WD not 4WD.

To give you an idea of what I'm talking about, I'm attaching the actual auction sheet for my car, which was sold for 1.84 million on the button. When you add 5% consumption tax, and 100,000 Y FOB fees, the total comes out at 2.032 million yen. So look out for those additional costs. As you can see from the sheet, every option was ticked except sunroof, which I didn't want.

As you can see the car was rated as 4 B/B - but both David and his Japanese associate say really it should have been an easy 5. The car is bloody flawless! I have seen many, many cars come fresh off the boat from Japan, and they always look a terrible mess. This one looked like it had come fresh from the production line. So, again, be very very careful with engineer's reports.

2004_Stagea_AXIS.pdf

Edited by autech_axis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...