Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think they said at the start the supra had real good tyres or something, it was in the comments on the youtube page, which would make sense, and seems quite fitting for the result.

i am a supra fan personally, but i still found it a bit of a shock for it to beat the GTR so easily

i think they said at the start the supra had real good tyres or something, it was in the comments on the youtube page, which would make sense, and seems quite fitting for the result.

i am a supra fan personally, but i still found it a bit of a shock for it to beat the GTR so easily

I am one too mate. :stupid: f**kin love them.

Can tyres really do that much of a difference? I've never driven by myself let alone drive on a track so I wouldn't have a clue. The Supra beats it stock for stock, but once the GTR gets some upgrades, I know who I'll be going for.

Edited by adam-__-

the other thing you have to take into account is that when you look at the specs on paper you see 1/4 mile and 0-100kmh specs. is this a true indication of which is quicker on a track? no. the gtr has 4wd so its 1/4 mile and 0-100 times are always going to be better. so a good set of tyres on the supra would just make it even. but it showed that in a straight line they are pretty much even, if not a little bit leaning towards the supra.

another good thing about the supra is that it has a square motor. 86mm x 86mm bore/stroke. the skyline motors are far from square. a square motor gives you a good combination of power and torque. and even the stroker kits for the rb26 don't make it square. they still have a shorter stroke than the 2jz, so they will rev higher, but not make as much torque.

Look another VS thread !

Well I don't know..... if you go on a skyline forum and ask if a skyline is better than a supra........oooh my brain hurts.. must drink more gatoraid.

I suggest that only a ninja can reveal the true answer and if you like this thread the odds are you may be ...... a ninja!

You must have real ultimate power !

So go here :

www.realultimatepower.net

I dont know where people get 50k price tags on for a supra. There a excellent examles of 97+ VVTI manual's for between 25-30k and anyone trying to get more is dreamng unless you go for an 01-02 model which can still be had for less than 35k.

There is less aftermarket support for the VVTI 2JZ but there are people who have experience with them and have achieved good results. In saying that, a low km 96- model will be a great base and the differences are only subtle unlike comparing r33-r34.

Why bother comparing built RB strokers with the the 2JZ, the kit itself would pay for a reasonable sized single conversion on a 2JZ with all supporting mods. By the way the stock valve train is good for 8000rpm reliably, any more and a valve spring upgrade will be necessary. Value for money the supra shits on the 34, the overall expense in getting the same performance and reliability totally outweighs any financial sense. Get the Nissan if you are a Nissan fan and cant stand the Toyota though if you are not brand biased then get the toyota as even at your goal of 300+rwkw it will be a much stronger and more reliable base overall, rb25's are on the edge at 300rwkw with stock internals and this is where the 2JZ is just coming to life.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...