Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My brother needs to buy a car within 2 weeks and he's looking for a cefiro or R32. Has to be RWD, manual, turbo and mechanically sound. He's been looking everywhere but there's not many choices at the moment. Budget depends on car but he doesn't really want to spend more than 12k max. He'll spend up to around 9k for a clean stocker or up to 12k if it has coilovers, FMIC etc. etc. So if you have a ceffy or R32 please PM me details and I'll pass them on.

what would he pay for a freshly complied 32 4dr car itself done just less than 100,000 not sure of motor as all was dont in japan.. navy blue with rb25 motor and box with 2 way diff. 17" work 3pce 5 spoke rims. have goodies not intaled but at a price. hopefully get complied tomorrow. can install coilovers as they are awaiting my pick up.

Edited by sneaky1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...