Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I just signed up recently to this forum to learn more about Skylines. I have a GTR32, live in Toronto, Canada and the gtrcanada.com site here is a great site, but does not compare to the wealth of information that you guys have. With that said, sau's name is all over gtrcanada.com, so I would like to ask some questions about suspension.

My control arms are done (I assume that means just the bushings and the actual metal is not bent).

My ball joints are done.

My car came with lowering springs on it when I got it.

Now, in the past with other cars that I have had and modified, my 1995 Ford Thunderbird Supercoupe for example I had put lowering springs on, and it never felt like the alignment was right, something would always go on it. Ball joint control arms, something. So I don't want to now just keep replacing the parts every year, I want to do it properly.

So, the question is, what after market parts are available to our cars for suspension that could help me get things set up properly and so I don't have to worry about it year after year. I am extremely hard on my car...that's what I bought it for. I love to drive and don't mind a stiff suspension at all.

When I ask about after market parts, I mean like control arms, tie rods obviously coilovers...I know I could end up spending a small fortune here, and of course I don't want too, but I am willing to spend a bit to have this done properly.

Thanks for any time you can spend with me on this, it will be most appreciative.

Kirk Bryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178386-new-here-looking-for-some-advice/
Share on other sites

yeah. lower is not always better. but lucky itsa skyline cos everything is avalable as a "bolt on" part. ie if a arm f**ks out. put an adjustable one in. works out cheaper cos no labour to r and r the bushes.

as far as ball joints go. if its the front lower ones. nissan is the only option. usually the front hub/knuckle/kingpin thing comes loose and isa mistaken for a ball joint. theres a 22 or 7/8 nut that you need to tighten. its located at the base of the upright. (the bit that turnes)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I'll shim that plug and hopefully it fixes it.  Yes still factory turbo for now, still have the misfire it's not as bad but still noticeable 
    • I had someone check the CU, they said it was fine but it could be buggered  I was only running around 7-10 PSI on the dual stage controller, but my boost gauge is shit house and needs replacing so I'm not getting a true reading.  Then I ran from wastegate pressure as per Turbosmart but still have the same sort of issue 
    • Yeah this is a thing. I've had mine setup like this for a few years now, works fine. If I dredge my memory bank, I think I had to do this after I removed my factory dash.  So you've tried it on gate pressure, I'm assuming this is the factory turbo? Did you still have misfire issues with that setup?
    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.   EDIT:  Not my channel but i saw this and i know that is what i want (and i have exactly this)  
×
×
  • Create New...