Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone help me!!

I've got a GTR32 and having problems with the harmonic balancer, I've gotten it tighten twice, but it keeps getting loose after a few days. It's been tighten by hand using a wrench. Is there a special tool needed to tighten it?

Has anyone had this problem before, and how do I fix it??

Chris

Mate what size wrench are we talking?

A mechanic friend of mine did mine in front of me, used a foot long breaker bar and then slotted on a 3 foot section of pipe for some extra leverage :D while I jammed the gearing with a screwdriver, needs to be real bloody tight!!

Other than, it's unlikely but the thread on the bolt might not be the best

Dude, I don't want to put the wind up you here, but the problem you are having is the best way to completely destroy the bottom end of an engine I know of. :thumbsup:

Firstly, loctite +11ty (although it will be a bolt, not a nut) Keep in mind that the thread you run the bolt into is actually the nose of the crankshaft so be vewy vewy careful of the condition of the thread on the bolt - it is a grade 8.8 high tension jobbie that can mess up the internal thread on the crank nose if you aren't careful.

Secondly, have a really close look at the thick washer behind the head of the bolt as you are running it in and make sure it is locating properly, I have seen this happen before where the washer was sitting up on a ledge and when the bolt felt tight, it was actually deforming the washer.

Lastly, I always use a rattle gun when I am tightening a harmonic balancer, apart from the fact that you don't have to risk chipping cam gears etc when you are trying to stop the engine from turning over, impacting it tight will hep the loctite cure properly.

Oh, and obviously make sure the key and keyway are in good condition and the rubber ring is not showing any sign of wear as this will lead to increased harshness and vibration.

i had a similar problem with a comodore. cut a long story short the harmonic balncer had a hit bent the crank a little kept killing the harmonic balncers and threw belts all the time. as the engine runs the bolt should tighten not undo so use the corect socket and a breaker bar(or you could actually look up the correct torque setting and use a tension wrench). as stinky roster said make shure your washer and bolt in good condition as well as the crank and harmonic balancer. under no circumstance whould i be using any loctite. if you use one that stands the heat you will never get it undone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...