Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone

last night was taking my new 180sx (SR20DET, man 93) for a spin I just bought it a few days ago from a shop wont say which, but as I was driving I started to boost the car a little, as I did so I heard something "dropped" and a sound was made like air escaped, the car immediately lost power and would not rev higher than 2500rpm but averaging at 2000rpm, the exhuast started giving alot of backfire as I drove the car home the car was only able to go 70km max. I called the guy that sold the car and he said he would fix it next week. just wondering has the engine blown??? or the turbo?? will i most likely need a rebuild??

thank you for your time

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179072-has-the-engine-blown/
Share on other sites

Yeah definitely sounds like the cooler pipe

Double check all connections, vacuum hoses and the AFM connection

Unplug the + terminal of the battery, then hit the brakes for a few seconds, then plug it back in

it should be back to normal, if it's not, it could be a lot of other things

Blown cooler pipe...my mates 180 did the same thing...he had a tear in one of the pipes so when it was on vacume it was fine...but boost expanded the silicone pipes opened at the tear and wouldnt boost up.....and it left a really ritch burning mark all up his rear bar

My car (R32 GTR) has the same problem, every so often it will just lose power and if I take it out of gear the revs will drop and the car will die. When it's having one of it's fits, it does exactly as you described, the rest of the time it just feels like crap to drive.

Havn't had a chance to take it to a mechanic to suss the problem out yet, although it's getting worse and i'm probably doing damage just driving it around. Let me know how you go and what sort of cost you're up for, hopefully i'm in the same boat and not worse ;)

DLUD3R, that sounds like something different. When idleing out of gear, you're in vacuum, so a split pipe won't open up so it shouldn't die. Yours sounds like your fuel pump is cactus. Does it splutter a lot under acceleration when it happens? That's what happened to mine. Check your spark plugs also.

Yeah, sparks and coils were my second guess. Had NGK Platinums and Splitfire coils put in, but problem still occured. I did notice that sometimes when turning the car on (before starting engine) you could hear the fuel pumping noise didn't go for as long as usual. Also when restarting the car after it died you couldn't hear the fuel pump at all. Fuel pump was my first guess at the issue, but i know nothing about car mechanics and everyone told me otherwise.

Don't have a chance to take it in anywhere for another week or so, so it's all specualtion at the moment. Thanks for suggesting fuel pump or I wouldn't have even suggested my mech have a look at it!

Purely for the sake of having an answer present for anyone with a similar problem, I have the result.

$2000 later (splitfire coils, ngk platinum sparks, fuel pump) ... the car finally plays up in front of my mechanic. 10 minutes later it's discovered that the problem is with the Air Flow Meters. They're running 2 very different voltages. Yay. What a waste of money, haha.

Ah yes, I've replaced one airflow meter for that reason also.

With it all hapening again, I have found out that the now 18 year old wiring is deteriorating to my fuel pump, airflow meters and O2 sensors, so replacing the flakey wires is what's needed. The fuel pump is actually hard-wired now with a new relay.

Sorry to hijack your thread ryukaza - did it end up being a popped cooler hose, or something else?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.    If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
    • What do you mean by "seals"? Internal hydraulic seals (ie, is it leaking PS fluid?) or the rack boots that close the rack onto the tie-rods? Because the former is a rebuild, and the latter is trivial that you or any nearby mechanic could do. Dunno about the cowl. Just buy what you think is required and get anything else you find/break afterwards. Wing? Dunno. Don't like R33s enough to pay attention to them. Mirror glass is just glass (on the surface that you want to polish). Go for it.
    • Hello! Long time lurker, been using the forums to address concerns and questions from afar for a while but I've struggled to find some answers so I guess its about time I made an account and formally asked some more knowledgeable people, since finding local skyline owners is hard (and shops that are knowledgeable or trustworthy to work on 'rare' cars are non existent out where im at, as skylines are quite uncommon to find in the wild around here). So the main 3 questions I have, 1: Steering rack has blown seals, well.. they kind of hold but they are not sealed properly anymore and as my R33 is my DD, i cant exactly rip the rack out and send it off or attempt to fix myself. As most refurb ones are around $1,100 or more shipped, and I have other things I need to work on around the car, I was seeking clarification on whether an S15 rack will more or less bolt right in, and whether a common mechanic could do any other required work to get it to fit. I ask, as I've found a supplier than can sell a manufactured as oem one for around 400, if not I'll likely order a used one from Jacks JDM, and take a risk on the seals there. The second question i have is that im replacing the front wiper cowl and have planned to buy 4 new clips and a new center clip but wasnt sure if there were any other clips that would also need to get replaced while I was at it. Given im sure any that are there now will simply break when I remove the old cowl... Last thing would be a fairly straight forward question, i think. If I manage (strong if, finding one has proven to be a pain) to find a R33 GTR spoiler/wing will it require much modification to bolt to a S2 R33 GTST? I've read the bolt patterns dont match but otherwise would bolt in, only options I have found with much luck is China stuff on ebay and carbonetics, which has a nice $650 shipping fee... so if anyone has any pointers where a US chap could locate one that would be great Random side question as well, the mirrors as I understand are mirror glass, and as im planning to polish my windows from water spots and surface scratches, i was hopeful cerium oxide would be fine for them too, as my research points to, but clarification is always nice. Any pointers would be appreciated, and while I have scoured the internet for answers if I missed a prior post somewhere that may answer these directly please point me towards it, as i must have simply missed it. I have seen a post here or there that has mentioned it, but I usually get 50-50 answers, or half answers... I dont have a lot of fab experience or mechanic experience, outside of hydraulic and pneumatic stuff I did in the military and with how hard it is to source stuff in the US, id rather not wing it and hemmoraghe money lol. Thanks guys! Sorry for the monumental first post haha
    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
×
×
  • Create New...