Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Well I just got my car back from RE Customs the other day and its making 280 rwkw on 16 psi (I run it on 14 daily). Last night I decided to try my high boost. the car takes off and then gate opens blah blah blah, BUT then as its getting to around 4 to 5 grand (was too busy focusing on the road) I notice the engine light flicks on and off, the flicking was similar to what happens when a light has a loose connection and whenever it moves, for that split second the connection is good again it lights up then dies again. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t think it’s a loose connection, imp just wondering what may be hurting my car. the car is stock internally with all the usual mods to support a bigger turbo (management, fuel system, exhaust, intake, afm etc) so I thought id come to the brains trust and see if you guys have any thoughts on it.

Cheers,

Ryan

hey mate

Sounds to me that the car is doing one of a few things

1: Knocking

2: maxing the AFM

3: maxing the injectors.

Can you do it again and this time get this data from your ECU's hand controller

1: the max knock level

2: the max injectory duty

3: the max Air flow meter voltage

then we can determin what the issue is. Is the flashing very fast or is it slow?

cheers

Hey guys, whoa you work fast! Well the light flashed sporadically, and at a fast rate.

DAMMIT! I was hoping it wasnt knock as I mulled over it last night but given what you just said Guilt I think its knock. Im running 550cc injectors and a Q45 AFM so there shouldnt be any issues there.

I actually dont have a hand controller for the PFC as I got it as a reiculously cheap price (before they ended) minus HC. Iv been looking at getting one but I was addressing othe areas of the car before hand as i heard they went that necessary.

Thanks for the quick help boys, if you have any more advice just shoot away, last thing i want to do is melt an engine.

Cheers,

Ryan

Edited by ardie

tell your tuner to come for a spin with you and show him the problem. Sounds like they squeezed it a bit hard and it needs more fuel or less timing. They should fix it up for you on the dyno for free since you paid for a full tune.

If it was engine noise, you would see warning lights on low boost also, probly knock warning....

what i meant was the light is probably triggered by the knock sensor, but the knock sensor may be picking up a noise caused by something else rather than detonation. it may just be loud enough at high rpm for the knock sensor to register it. it is more than likely knock, but there is always the chance it is a false knock.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...