Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I was driving this morning when my car started to play up. It is a 96 Series II GTS-T, only mods are Zaust and HKS air filter. Basically is slowed down approaching a set of lights, then accelerated as they changed, not hard, very gentle, when the engine seemed to start vibrating or shaking. I could feel it through the peddles and gear knob and it sounded bad. i had to keep driving for a little bit and it slowly got worse. I only drove about 1km.

Any ideas what might be wrong, anyone had a similar problem. My first guess was one of the spark plugs was missing. But I really dont know much about cars.. i am learning though.

Any help would be great.

Cheers,

Ace.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17949-engine-problem-shaking/
Share on other sites

it wouldnt be a miss cos missing doesnt make ur engine shake, check the cam gears for timing. Does it feel like loss of power as well ? if so maybe one of your chambers isnt even working like running 5 instead of 6 cylinders. If i were you id try and get it to a mechanic asap

Check the bolts (four or five) around the fan/fanclutch. I had a similar prob. after a service a little while ago. Turns out they didn't do the bolts up and I nearly lost the fan in the engine bay!!!

Yeah, it wasnt as powerful as it should have been. It didnt feel like i should have driven it either, but i had to keep going, and it kept going.

I'll look at the fan, but i dont think thats the problem.

I left the car where i pulled up so i cant check this stuff out till later tonight. but i am going to get it towed, again, to the mechanic tomorrow and get it sorted out.

I just signed up for RACV, so i'll get them to come out and look at it tomorrow for me. Gotta wait 24 hrs.

I am guessing its not a good idea to drive it to the mechanic.

Cheers again.

How much vibration is there? If its only a little vibration and you have a big exhaust, some times the exhaust can shake the car up a bit. Depends if you have a flexible exhaust connection between the dump and the cat. I know one mine there isn't a flexible connection and the car gently shakes at idle.

If its a hard vibration it could be anything? A fouled plug, a misfiring cylinder anything some thing out of balance....

it wouldnt be a miss cos missing doesnt make ur engine shake

yes it does. try driving a skyline on 5 cylinders - sounds like the engine is about to fall out until u really rev it (not recommended)

have a quick look over the ignition system

coil packs and spark plugs and make sure theres no loose connections. if you dont know alot of these cars then take it to a mechanic and explain what happened and say u think it might be misfiring on 1-2 cylinders

yeah missing is quite different then having it run on five cylinders man. i have a miss at idle and that does not make my engine shake vigorously, when it starts missing after redline the engine does not shake. IF a cylinder is not working of course it would shake, i shouldve reaphrased my post for less confusion

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...