Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I am serious about this too, I need a good cheap conversion (easy too) for my old dato ute. Nissan 720 the poor little thing

is a bit tired only having 119, 119, 115, 110 psi and using massive massive amounts of fuel. Should be 171psi.

What I need is some Ideas of engine swap and how hard / easy it will be. Any help would be great.

I am looking for good towing capacity and fuel economy.

Currently its a L18

Current thinking is a

Z24 2.4L out of a navara. I Know for a fact it bolts straight in.

SR20DE

vg30DE

vg25DE

ca18T

L20

v6 common bore (dont really want to go that way)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179621-conversion/
Share on other sites

If you are going the 2.4 then make sure it is the efi version as the carby ones are woeful on power and fuel. With it being full chassis you can pretty much put anything in legally.

So work out what it is going to be used for and use the appropriate engine.

EG Small cube not good for towing but good on fuel bigger cube good on towing but worse on fuel. You can buy a kit to fit the holden V6 into most utes and they are cheap as no one wants them for anything but a work ute.

The 2.4 Navara engine should also fit quite easy and as long as its injected as in the KA24 and not the Z24 then it should be quite torquey aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179621-conversion/#findComment-3272545
Share on other sites

might be worth calling Castlemaine Rod Shop, they make a amazing number of conversion kits. you could also try and find something like an owners club or even talk to a Nissan commercial wrecker, sometimes they can be a mine of info on what goes with what because they see so many parts. if you dig enough you'll find someone, somewhere that has done it before.

alternatively, once you've calculated the time and money, and then doubled it, consider buying another ute unless this is something you really want to do.

google is you friend. $1400 for the V6 kit:

http://www.v6conversions.com.au/nissan720.htm

Edited by Scooby
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179621-conversion/#findComment-3272752
Share on other sites

Mate if you want easy get the L20. Dime a dozen too.

Im putting an L18 into my datsun and it literallly just drops in and plugs up.

The only thing youll notice is the L20 wont rev as high but i spose thats not really an issue in a ute.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179621-conversion/#findComment-3272778
Share on other sites

ok cool thanks guys..... mmm more thinking I can get the v6 common for around 500 including the kit and fuel pump too. If he has not sold it already.

Would love to stevie but I dont want to spend the money I am a tight arss....

Edited by race_snooze
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179621-conversion/#findComment-3273082
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...