Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I have been looking at a R32 skyline 4door GTST 1990 Auto.

It has a BN bodykit and custom colour paint job.

Everything else is completely stock. Has 118,000 on the clock

If any1 has an idea on what it is worth it would much appreciated THANKS!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180317-how-much-should-i-pay-for-r32-4door/
Share on other sites

gday, i wouldnt spend much north of $15,000.. if that really, but who am i to talk.. im buying a gtr costing me 24k haha

but yeah, nothing north of $15,000 i'd say, thats my opinion really

catchya,

adam

Hey guys.

I have been looking at a R32 skyline 4door GTST 1990 Auto.

It has a BN bodykit and custom colour paint job.

Everything else is completely stock. Has 118,000 on the clock

If any1 has an idea on what it is worth it would much appreciated THANKS!

G'day,

Isn't the 32 on carsale for $9k something?

I recently bought R32 4 door auto for $8.5k with RWC (which the previous owner spent $500 to get it roadworthy). Mine's auto, 93 model, 163xxx kms but the engine is sound, I get $4k stereo system which I'll remove it (it's useless for me!) and a set of brand new ROH rims thrown in as well!

I'd pay around $8-9k for 1 of these, you mentioned BN kit and custom colour paint job, I'd be checking for accident damage just to be safe.

Hope it helps.

Cheers

Grant

G'day,

Isn't the 32 on carsale for $9k something?

I recently bought R32 4 door auto for $8.5k with RWC (which the previous owner spent $500 to get it roadworthy). Mine's auto, 93 model, 163xxx kms but the engine is sound, I get $4k stereo system which I'll remove it (it's useless for me!) and a set of brand new ROH rims thrown in as well!

I'd pay around $8-9k for 1 of these, you mentioned BN kit and custom colour paint job, I'd be checking for accident damage just to be safe.

Hope it helps.

Cheers

Grant

Hey Mate. yeh thats the one on carsales. How do you ckeck for previous accidents? Any tips? thanks

Hey Mate. yeh thats the one on carsales. How do you ckeck for previous accidents? Any tips? thanks

G'day again,

Look at chassis rails in engine bay, if it's straight, it's good, take it for test-drive and see if the car goes straight.

Ask for recepits to the work done, ask the seller questions, etc...

Also look for rusts, they're old cars nowdays.

Feel free to ask more q's.

Cheers

Grant

I honestly wouldn't spend anything more than $10k max. I bought my car which was factory manual, gts-4, full exhaust, aftermarket turbo with about 112 thousand Ks. It cost me $9k with rego and roadworthy.

Just check over the car to make sure everything checks out ok. If you wish to pay more for a better condition car then go straight ahead. I would, but didn't have to.

Good luck.

clearly depending what its got, the 4 doors sell for less than the 2 doors as would b expected. for a stock/ish one i wouldn't pay more than 9-10k max and i'd at least try and get one for 8 but thats perhaps starting to get a little low. As for accident history common sense is the best policy, if panels arn't lining up etc. it's prob been stacked. Goodluck

I bought 32 4 door auto in may this year .... cost me 9.5k from brisbane unique cars ... that included 2 year warranty .. road worthy .. compliance .. 6 months rego .. and a full tank of fuel :) ....

this car only had 69,100km's and i am the first australian owner ... i had to wait 2 weeks for the compliance plate to come in the mail.

Hope my info helps... but i agree ... i wouldnt pay anymore then 10k for one...

I was talking to my mate today and he's selling his R32 4 door GTS-t. To give u an idea. He's willing to flog it for $10,500 firm. The reason he is selling it so cheap is he cant b bothered waiting around (even though it's CLEARLY worth more) as he has just purchased an R32 GTR and needs the cash asap. If anyone interested give me a PM and i shall hook u up. In Perth WA. Hasn't been advertised anywhere yet to my knowledge, so if ure keen u have first bite of the cherry.

But it has:

Silver duco

5 spd Man

~100,000 kms

Heavy Duty single plate clutch

GTR suspension (modified profesionally to fit up)

WRX bucket seats from the 2000's on custom rails ($800+)

Big front mount intercooler

Boost guage

Modified computer from Jap

Turbotechnics boost controller

Aftermarket steering wheel

Has replaced ALL the hoses, clamps in engine bay, new alternator.

GTR radiator

GTR brake master cylinder

Aftermarket front rotors

Jap Full Exhaust system (Sounds SEX)- Kakimoto dragger.

Interior is near spotless

CD player aftermarket splits and tweaters installed too.

New rubber A+ grip rated

Professionally lipped rear guards to get the 245's in a little easier

Removed rear spoiler.

17'' Light weight deep dish rims that also look SEX- ppl always trying to buy his rims including me!

And i'm sure there are other things that have slipped my mind!!

only thing u could say is slightly wrong is it has 2-3 V.small pin dents and the Synchro on 4th isn't the greatest (common problem) He's been my best mate for something like 18yrs and i can vouch it's a good car and very well looked after.

It goes a lot harder than it should really. We think it's computer had been modified in jap as it puts out hard as i said and it runs a leaner A/F ratio etc. (not dangerous though). Has held with 2.5L big turbo Soarers on the freeway! NS.

Thats a bit of a bloody steal so don't go expecting to find this, but its an example of if u look u can find. Let us know.

Admins if need be feel free to move this link to the for sale section.

Take it easy boys n girls.

:laughing-smiley-014:

Edited by WhatBrake

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...