Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Once upon a time in the land of the rising sun the emperor decreed that he would like to try his hand at time attack. The dutiful officials decked out a gleaming black Nissan Cedric with twin carbs, extractors, an apexi cannon and whitewall cheesecutters in accordance with his majesty's whim and took the whole shebang to Mt Fuji so his highness could demonstrate his supremeness to the people by shattering the record.

As it turns out the divine one couldnt drive a nail into soap and ended up sideways at every left or right deviation as well as on the main straight. The quick thinking officials in fear of losing their heads then announced to the crowd that his greatness had just demonstrated the new national sport to be embraced by all and it would be called....."DRIFTING"

Such was the general lack of driving ability among the populace that most of them had been (unbeknown to themselves) "DRIFTING" for most of their driving lives. Now that it had the divine seal of approval it raised the standard of moral to a high level throughout the land to the point that DRIFTING became the norm and driving in a straight line or smoothly on a circuit was severely frowned upon by officialdom.

So you see Markimac (mudcrab) and others. "DRIFTING" is the sole domain of those talentless individuals incapable of correctly apexing a corner or putting the power down in a manner conducive to exiting a corner under full control at high speed. Even High speed low et drag times are beyond their limited ability hence their desire to embrace the "DRIFTING" principle.

And they all lived happily ever after. :laughing-smiley-014:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180784-a-bed-time-story/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 273
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Once upon a time in the land of the rising sun the emperor decreed that he would like to try his hand at time attack. The dutiful officials decked out a gleaming black Nissan Cedric with twin carbs, extractors, an apexi cannon and whitwall cheesecutters in accordance with his majesty's whim and took the whole shebang to Mt Fuji so his highness could demonstrate his supremeness to the people by shattering the record.

As it turns out the divine one couldnt drive a nail into soap and ended up sideways at every left or right deviation as well as on the main straight. The quick thinking officials in fear of losing their heads then announced to the crowd that his greatness had just demonstrated the new national sport to be embraced by all and it would be called....."DRIFTING"

Such was the general lack of driving ability among the populace that most of them had been (unbeknown to themselves) DRIFTING for most of their driving lives. Now that it had the divine seal of approval it raised the standard of moral to a high level throughout the land to the point that DRIFTING became the norm and driving in a straight line or smoothly on a circuit was severely frowned upon by officialdom.

So you see Markimac (mudcrab) and others. DRIFTING is the sole domain of those talentless individuals incapable of correctly apexing a corner or putting the power down in a manner conducive to exiting a corner under full control at high speed. Even High speed low et drag times are beyond your limited ability hence your desire to embrace the DRIFTING principle.

And they all lived happily ever after. :laughing-smiley-014:

thankyou papa noel. the emperor u speaketh of is a man call dai-jiro :P

fook yeah i wish the traffic in australia had 500hp :sorcerer: the silver R34 or later white is the blitz 4 door driven by ken nomura.

Kenny! I remember him. he tried his hand at drag racing at the bank. What you see in the video is what he produced there too. :laughing-smiley-014:

rightio gents and ladies(thats you shane), as someone who has embraced DRIFT, you drag racers are just jealous that we get to turn RIGHT as well as LEFT.

+1

someone change the name to drift vs grip.. :thanks:

i wonder how many have used the dirty man's weight reduction technique...:P

whats this u speak of..?

Image017.jpg

Nigga please

I can drag to a degree

I can drive circuit to a degree

But I can not drift in anyway shape or form

That tells me it is harder and the likely hood of tards being able to do it is low

And Noel you KNOW that when done well and minus the antisocial skater/jackass type attitude that the scene has in this particular country it is a good specticle with some really nice cars! You told me ooops I promised not to tell others ha ha :P

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...