Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey dudes,

I'm wondering if anyone has some part numbers regarding certain Items that are commonly replaced on RB30's during a complete tear down and rebuild.

Does anyone have a list of things they usually use when building these engines, or atleast what engines they borrow them from.

My main concern is the rear seal, and the bolts for it. can I use an RB25 unit with success, or would an RB26 unit make more sense?

should I buy bolts from the RB25 or 26 block for the water pump and all that.

What about the key way? and how about that crank drive gear and the washers for and aft?

basically, anything internal or has to do with the bottom end that needs replacing, or should atleast be replaced since we're down there... let me know!

I'm trying to put together a somewhat more complete parts list that perhaps cubes can attach to his guide, or can be hosted on my website when I get around to it.

Much appreciated, fellas

Raff

Edited by Careless
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181082-rb30-cross-platform-parts/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
Hey dudes,

I'm wondering if anyone has some part numbers regarding certain Items that are commonly replaced on RB30's during a complete tear down and rebuild.

Does anyone have a list of things they usually use when building these engines, or atleast what engines they borrow them from.

My main concern is the rear seal, and the bolts for it. can I use an RB25 unit with success, or would an RB26 unit make more sense?

should I buy bolts from the RB25 or 26 block for the water pump and all that.

What about the key way? and how about that crank drive gear and the washers for and aft?

basically, anything internal or has to do with the bottom end that needs replacing, or should atleast be replaced since we're down there... let me know!

I'm trying to put together a somewhat more complete parts list that perhaps cubes can attach to his guide, or can be hosted on my website when I get around to it.

Much appreciated, fellas

Raff

I hate to sound rude, but the fact that people who claim to have built these engines reply to every thread on this site, yet can't answer this one with any sort of information regarding small block parts like bolts and whatnot is pretty pathetic.

I'm sure there are plenty of builders out there who have done this time and time again. Is it so much to ask which parts you guys use to REPLACE worn parts on a RB30 block?

Come on fellas.

Raff

you're asking for quite a bit, yet you call lack of responses "pathetic". And you wonder why no one has replied?

You're also askign someone to do all of the hard work for you.

I am going to do a RB30 build soon, and I'll be flying blind. But I am more than capable of researching things as I go.

So if you're nice, and I could be bothered, I'll come back and post in your demanding thread?

i know that between the rb bottom ends the same oil pump / rear main seals can be used.

Most of the bolts are all the same - its very similar setup.

Edited by Guilt-Toy
I hate to sound rude, but the fact that people who claim to have built these engines reply to every thread on this site, yet can't answer this one with any sort of information regarding small block parts like bolts and whatnot is pretty pathetic.

I'm sure there are plenty of builders out there who have done this time and time again. Is it so much to ask which parts you guys use to REPLACE worn parts on a RB30 block?

Come on fellas.

Raff

Since we have many rb30's over here and many spare parts for rb30's generally it's easier and cheaper just to buy rb30 parts, so most people on here would not even care to cross reference parts.

I hate to sound rude, but the fact that people who claim to have built these engines reply to every thread on this site, yet can't answer this one with any sort of information regarding small block parts like bolts and whatnot is pretty pathetic.

I'm sure there are plenty of builders out there who have done this time and time again. Is it so much to ask which parts you guys use to REPLACE worn parts on a RB30 block?

Come on fellas.

Raff

why would businesses or enthusiasts want to give you their hard learned knowledge for free when you act like an idiot on the forum basically demanding they help you? you want everyone to share info they have learned over the years but what are you sharing except for your bad attitude? I'm not surprised no one is replying.

basically every post you have made on SAU is to leech information from people here about your build. which is fair enough. plenty of people have helped you out. but when you don't get what you want straight away and want to abuse un-named for not responding that is too much.

why would businesses or enthusiasts want to give you their hard learned knowledge for free when you act like an idiot on the forum basically demanding they help you? you want everyone to share info they have learned over the years but what are you sharing except for your bad attitude? I'm not surprised no one is replying.

basically every post you have made on SAU is to leech information from people here about your build. which is fair enough. plenty of people have helped you out. but when you don't get what you want straight away and want to abuse un-named for not responding that is too much.

I'm glad someone else finally put you in your place and I didn't have to waste my time typing this. Beer Baron is 100% correct.

Raff, your attitude stinks and if you were nicer I'm pretty sure people that did it themselves (not mechanics) would have helped.

Pull the engine down and have a look - its pretty bloody obvious what will need to be replaced.

First of all. Incase you guys didn't notice. I live on the side of the planet where neither RB of any kind was available. Finding parts is not the easiest thing to do, and while you guys don't have to cross reference anything, I DO. and I've tried. It's not as easy as you think, especially when the RB30 isn't even listed in the resources that I have available.

Infact, I don't even know anyone with an RB30 FSM, let alone a F.A.S.T CD catalogue. Only the RB20, 25, and 26 (and a 28, for some reason) are listed in the FAST catalog. THAT IS WHY im asking for cross ref parts.

BAMR33:

Since we have many rb30's over here and many spare parts for rb30's generally it's easier and cheaper just to buy rb30 parts, so most people on here would not even care to cross reference parts.

If you buy RB30 parts, then you would get the part number on the bag. If someone was kind enough to give me THAT part number, then I could use the RB30 one too, and I wouldn't have to guess at RB25 and 26! I CANT DO THAT because in order for me to place a parts request for an RB part at a dealership here, I need to know the EXACT PART NUMBER. They don't have the overseas cars on their FAST system here, but they do have access to the parts tree, and can get the parts if I supply the number them.

Just as an example ,the RB26 and RB25 crank gear are 88 and 22 dollars respectively. THATS WHY i'd like to know what works, or if someone can give me the part numbers for the RB30. Because the RB25 one is 3 times less, and if I had the RB30 number itself, I could just order that and be done with.

BEER BARON

why would businesses or enthusiasts want to give you their hard learned knowledge for free when you act like an idiot on the forum basically demanding they help you? you want everyone to share info they have learned over the years but what are you sharing except for your bad attitude? I'm not surprised no one is replying.

Excuse me? Hard learned knowledge? IM ASKING FOR A PART NUMBER. I'm not asking to leech information, I was asking if someone could look through the SAME PARTS catalogue or SAME resources they have when ordering parts for themselves, or if anyone know which parts will work on said crank snout, as I'm being hopeful that someone has once tried.

IT'S NOT THAT HARD WHEN YOU HAVE ACCESS TO LOCAL PARTS INFORMATION. GET IT? Good.

When you DON'T have access, you need to have someone look it up for you. So excuse me if I think that that the lack of response is pathetic. Maybe it's because you don't get what I really need. I'm not asking for someone to cough up their findings (whatever the hell you think those are). I'm just asking for a simple part number that I KNOW you guys have ordered before. ESPECIALLY SINCE the easiest way to take the damn thing off when rebuilding an engine is to BREAK IT OFF.

EVERYTHING i've asked for has been something that someone somewhere on this forums has bought EASILY because it's available to them.

When you buy a crank sprocket from Nissan, you could just ask them what you need, whether you know the part number or not, and the PART NUMBER would be on the bag when you pick it up. THERE IS NO RESEARCH INVOLVED because you guys have regular parts stock at your local dealerships.

The Mafia

I'm glad someone else finally put you in your place and I didn't have to waste my time typing this. Beer Baron is 100% correct.

Raff, your attitude stinks and if you were nicer I'm pretty sure people that did it themselves (not mechanics) would have helped.

Pull the engine down and have a look - its pretty bloody obvious what will need to be replaced.

Another one. You don't even know what I'm asking for either. I KNOW WHAT HAS TO BE REPLACED. IM asking for the NUMBERS that I can use to ORDER IT. why are you making it so difficult? You don't need to be a mechanic or work at Nissan to have the answers. It's pretty "bloody obvious" that you're just jumping on the "lets hate Careless" bandwagon to get your word in. Next time read my post before you reply.

Do you understand why I find it pathetic that no one has this information now? Especially since I've seen a number of parts numbers for other stuff around this board? Don't accuse me of being bitter when it seems like people are withholding information for reasons I do not know. I tend to find this board good in terms of technical knowledge, which is why i asked here, in hopes of someone knowing the parts numbers. It seems as though everyone (even people I've seen in threads regarding RB30 rebuilds) are ignoring what I'm asking.

Fair?

Sorry for the attitude but your reasons for not helping suck too, especially when you don't understand what I'm looking for, which wasn't too hard to gather if you've read the 3 or 4 threads that I've made in the first place, which were asking the same questions in different formats so maybe it would be easier to understand.

Again, I despised saying it, but it is pretty pathetic. I wasn't asking for tricks, I was asking for simple info like "hey for the water pump, you could use any RB25/26 bolt, yada yada yada

I don't know why this blew up like it did. Oh wait, yes I do. because you guys didn't even properly read what I was asking kindly for. And I asked for it 3 times and waited.

Also, incase you didn't notice, I was going to do this so I could append it to cubes guide, or atleast make one of my own, but I'm not sure if I want to even bother anymore.

Raff

Edited by Careless

And one more thing, since apparently I'm a leech.

Before you go accusing me of leeching and bringing nothing to this board, I ask you to take a look at this thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry3209531

Not only did i post my findings, but I went a step further to help you guys find parts where other parts are hard to come by. Just in case someone down the road needed the information that I went around searching for....

I was hoping that by this time, someone would have a similar listing of parts for the bottom end.

Is it to much to ask someone to do the same, or at least even less? (no sleuthing involved in RB30 crank gears, just a part number).

Sorry for asking.

Edited by Careless
i know that between the rb bottom ends the same oil pump / rear main seals can be used.

Most of the bolts are all the same - its very similar setup.

And thank you, specifically, for being the only person who understands what I was asking for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...