Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Fyi, Fire Extinguisher / Blanket $33 @ Rah


Recommended Posts

just thought the south aussies might be interested to know.. the royal adelaide hospital (ground floor, health promotion unit) is selling a fire extinguisher and fire blanket for $33. I haven't checked out the fire extinguisher yet, to see if it's approved for track... but it sounds cheap.

Edited by Howie

Just had a quick look.. it's either a fire blanket OR a fire extinguisher for $33. Not both sorry bout that.

I only got a quick peak at the sign, didn't go right up to inspect the fire extinguisher because i was on the job. It does say for caravans, workshops, etc. So not sure if it's the correct rating.

Edited by Howie
  • 2 weeks later...
If it's AB:E I'd definitely be interested.

Hey oosh.. it's a

1a:10b:e

Does that make it an ABE?? btw, they were selling these things at $45 at west lakes.. they're still available from the RAH for $33 though, not sure for how long.

Edited by Howie

Disclaimer: I'm not a professional re: Fire Extinguishers

So I offer this in good faith, but I *might* just be talking crap, so do your own research before making any decisions.

The above being said:

1A 10B:E means it'll do a small class A fire and larger (but still smallish) B,C,D,E fires.

Classes:

A - Wood, paper, etc.

B - Liquids

C - Gas

D - Metal (these are toughest and most incl. this one won't do much good)

E - Electrical

F- Cooking Oils fats - That's where the blanket comes in.

These extinguishers are just good enough to stop a fire getting hold if you move quick enough, but not stop a blaze, that's what the Firey's are for so don't be a hero!

Be aware A:BE dry chemical is super fine, goes EVERYWHERE, and is not real nice on electronics.

So keep it away from your brand new plasma (unless that's on fire).

That's why most business places use Water and CO2, so you might want to consider that around the home, but it isn't as versatile or as effective in most cases.

Just to reiterate:

Disclaimer: I'm not a professional re: Fire Extinguishers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...