Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cost of the chip was about $500 plus the dyno time... now that i think about it now, Apexi Power FC's are starting to go real cheap, ($1300+) and that would be a better proposition now if i were to recommend something now...

I make 241rwkw in my R32 GTR which has the above mentioned chipped ECU, full upgraded exhaust from the turbos back - HKS dumps, Apexi front pipes, and a custom 3.5" Mandrel bent exhaust, K&N Pods and boost spikes as high as 16psi with standard turbos using a bleed valve.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18133-aftermarket-ecus/#findComment-379185
Share on other sites

Mr R32 M-Spec,

Try emailing Lucas from Perth ([email protected]), he has many maps for many cars and can reprogram ROMS to your specification. His SR20 "BikiROM's" have been selling like hotcakes lately, now shipping them to workshops overeast.

The RB20 computer is really easily reprogrammed so its probably the cheapest option and still allows alot of scope for increased horsepower.

Im not sure about cost, but ill bet its cheaper than Chiptorque.

Red17

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18133-aftermarket-ecus/#findComment-379714
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
There is only one ecu that you should be buying and that is autronic

they ahve their good points but are still not legal you get caught with one an you are owned plusa the cost of instalation and tuning is very high.

plus why go after market when the factory chip can be reprogrammed?

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18133-aftermarket-ecus/#findComment-421253
Share on other sites

Woops, poor Autronic got reamed, control ECU in V8s means all car are now using Motec.

Oh and despite many teams using Autronic when the rules allowed, not many of could afford the SM2 with all the fruit, just like many of us cant afford an M800 Motec ECU with all the fruit. (Thats an assumption that they use the top models)

Mort, have you set up any SMCs on RB20s?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18133-aftermarket-ecus/#findComment-421274
Share on other sites

they use the M48, all owned by tega, maximum of 1 igntion output and all they can change are fuel and ignition maps, pit lane limiters and so on are all programmed by tega, who can ask for the ecu and replace it with another with no warning

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18133-aftermarket-ecus/#findComment-421282
Share on other sites

So the control ECU has limited the teams ability to use many of the other features? They still get all the data logging dont they?

Im assuming they are still able to trim mixtures etc for individual cylinders etc etc. Tega i imagine are pretty paranoid about traction control and the like.

As for the ECU im using, well at the moment factory, but i took the easy road and after a lot of patience and delays i get my Power Fc this week.:rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18133-aftermarket-ecus/#findComment-421298
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Is it worth paying the extra cost to get both powerfc & the hand controller? As most tuning workshop who can do powerfc should have the hand controller, once it's set nice, do you need the hand controller yourself to change something from time to time?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18133-aftermarket-ecus/#findComment-462976
Share on other sites

One of the workshops in Perth borrows the dataloggit to do the tuning of the PowerFC, provides more features and is much quicker to tune then using the hand controller.

I have the Wolf 3D Ver4 Plug'n'play computer in my car. It's been great and has lots of advanced features that many other aftermarket computers don't.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18133-aftermarket-ecus/#findComment-462985
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
power fc would be on the top of the list for me, just plug in and they come with a base programe that gives more power with out being tuned then just drive to your dyno place and get them to tune it. i guess you would save money on the fitting process as well motec make a plug in as well that is sposed to be good.

I have been looking into the autronic smc and sm2 and both have the "autotune" option which is most valuable if u want to drive it to the tuner to have it further fine tuned.

http://www.autronic.com/autotune.html

My only concern is this:- "After the tuning is complete the analyzer and 02 sensor is longer need. At any time after tuning is finished the values in the target closed loop table can be changed, and the engine will automatically run the new air fuel ratio"

using the o2 sensor continously would be more ideal.

Has anyone heard of running the autronic with an o2 sensor (closed loop).

The cheapest PFC and controller I can find brand new is $980 and $355 respectively. And that's delivered. Pretty good value I reckon. Try www.greenline.jp

This is also the price I got, don't forget postage isn't included.

I have been reading up on the FC and have found limited info, so far i've found that the FC when tuned on pc is only available in japanese, I have heard rumours that there is an english version available but havent been able to find it.

Any ideas on this?.

Also can the FC be used without numerious features that are on skylines like air con etc..

I would like to use the fc in a car that was originally carby and doesnt have air con etc.., anyone know just how flexible the FC is with this kind of thing?.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18133-aftermarket-ecus/#findComment-716558
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...