Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

at a gues i'd say the side that is dark or dimly lit, is because the leds on that side are the wrong way around.. the dim light will be the remainder light from the other side.. just try truning the LED around on the side that's dark.. if not check the LED is making contact

ok i just remembered something. yea i dumbly put the LED in the wrong way with 2 of them so got that fixed...AND i just remembered ...ive got blue light emitted but just remembered that i had ordered the WHITE led's :S ....can we do something about this? ive still got the packaging and have had less than an hr's use...

Blue means you have blue film behind the dials it's put in some of the dashes to reduce the amount of yellow light from the factory globes, if you look at the odometer you'll notice it's pure white (as there is no film over it) but the dials will be blueish, it's covered a fair few times in the LED sale thread, some cars have the film some don't, all R34's have it.

All our globes are colour coded, white base, white bulb, blue base, blue bulb.

This is a late model 180SX with it, note areas of pure white which are circled, this is the true colour of the globes showing through in areas without the blue plastic film

led1.jpg

This is what blue looks like installed, it really is very blue

79bda8bb.jpg

i have your blue leds installed in my r34 dash and aircon and the lighting isn't really even .. you can see how its darker and weaker in some spots. My throughts are this is because they're directional leds.

wouldn't it give better, more even light coverage if it was a single led (instead of 4x3v small ones) and non-directional ??

i have your blue leds installed in my r34 dash and aircon and the lighting isn't really even .. you can see how its darker and weaker in some spots. My throughts are this is because they're directional leds.

wouldn't it give better, more even light coverage if it was a single led (instead of 4x3v small ones) and non-directional ??

A single LED gives horrific results, they're even worse for lighting as they tend to have a more directional design than the rectangle LEDs and less output. I've even tried some newer cree diodes and can't get the coverage of this tri-led design. The main problem with the R34 dash is you're trying to illuminate a large dash with 4 small bulbs. The R33's have 5 large T10's to light the dash up so look much better.

Even with the stock bulbs I can see light and dark patches in the R34 dash, it's just poorly designed. When you put a brighter bulb in it's more noticeable.

  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...
Just bought the white ones yesterday prob will install them next weekend i hope it's not too hard to do this.

Mate its a piece of piss! Print this guide out and follow it, its great - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...lu-t228667.html Just remember to check the globes are in the the right direction and working before putting everything back together. I put 1 globe in at a time and the tested it, as you work across the cluster you'll see it light up with each globe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...