Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My friend was asking me if its possible for him to register a car in japan having bought it from auction here..

i couldnt for the life of me answer the question and id like to know as well..

I think ( read:think ) its possible for him.

any ideas or feedback?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181903-question/
Share on other sites

My friend was asking me if its possible for him to register a car in japan having bought it from auction here..

i couldnt for the life of me answer the question and id like to know as well..

I think ( read:think ) its possible for him.

any ideas or feedback?

thanks

I think he should be able to... as the auctions are japanesse auctions like we have car auctions over here....

So the importers just buy them and put them in a container... their still registerable in japan

Edited by axe s
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181903-question/#findComment-3303376
Share on other sites

thats helps a little but your not 100 % sure, right?

i wouldve thought the same about what you said..but for some reason i reckon if you buy a car from auction its slated for release from the country, not for re registering..i could be very wrong though..

can anyone give me a definitive answer?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181903-question/#findComment-3303401
Share on other sites

lol, no it's not. the majority of cars sold at japanese auctions stay on japanese roads... of course he can register it in japan, it's a japanese car. hell lots of the cars for sale at auction still have current rego which he would just need transferred into his name. the car is only 'slated for release' once it's been de-registered and booked on a vessel out. even then no one actually says "this car is for export only". it could come back and be registered again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181903-question/#findComment-3303416
Share on other sites

lol, no it's not. the majority of cars sold at japanese auctions stay on japanese roads... of course he can register it in japan, it's a japanese car. hell lots of the cars for sale at auction still have current rego which he would just need transferred into his name. the car is only 'slated for release' once it's been de-registered and booked on a vessel out. even then no one actually says "this car is for export only". it could come back and be registered again.

mr new news comes through with the goods! :P Yeah i dunno why i was scratching my head so hard over it..common sense, Adam...common sense.

So he could go to the auctions with someone he knows and pick out a car, which could also have registration and pay the auction fees and cars costs and hes all hunky dorey? ill let him know. By the way, hes looking for an CLK merc or 5 series bmw.. should be able to pick one up very cheap compared to Oz the lucky bugger..RHD too..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181903-question/#findComment-3303430
Share on other sites

yep, he can buy a car at auction, pay for car and buyers fee, and if the car still has rego and shaken paid then he can transfer it when he picks the car up. if it has none then it's just whatever the usual rego process is (regardless of where car was bought from).

yeah the euros are pretty good value in japan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181903-question/#findComment-3303456
Share on other sites

yep, he can buy a car at auction, pay for car and buyers fee, and if the car still has rego and shaken paid then he can transfer it when he picks the car up. if it has none then it's just whatever the usual rego process is (regardless of where car was bought from).

yeah the euros are pretty good value in japan.

good news.

euros are great value richard. i saw a CLK going in auction and when the dust settled the thing was 3.2 mil. The car was a 2004 3.2 with only 20k on the clock..

i then checked car sales and comparative example were more than double that.. bit of a shock.

oh, by the way, failed finance...havent been at work long enough and neither has wifey... :P

never mind... Im just going to have to put more cash together.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181903-question/#findComment-3303499
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...